Our train rolled over both these waterways on its journey towards Narbonne.
By this time we had realised that we had been misinformed as to the hour we should reach Gerona, our first resting-place, adding one more record to the chapter of small accidents. At Narbonne we had the good fortune to find a Chef de Gare civil and obliging as he of Bordeaux, who declared it impossible to reach Gerona that day as there was no railway communication. We should have to spend the night at Portbou, the Spanish frontier, where our quarters would be wretched, and all our sweet turn to bitter against those who had misled us.
We decided at once. "Better remain where there is a good inn, than go on to the miseries of Portbou, Monsieur le Chef."
"That is clear," he replied. "Here you will be comfortable--and on French ground," laughing: "a virtue in my eyes, and I hope in yours also."
We willingly agreed. "But our luggage? It is registered to Portbou."
He looked grave. "That is unfortunate; it must go on to Portbou. I cannot give it to you. It is against all rules, and I greatly regret it."
"Yet we cannot do without it. If you send it on to Portbou, we cannot remain behind. Have you the heart to consign us to that _chambre de tortures?_"
He paused a moment, revolving the momentous situation. "No," he laughed at length, "I cannot do that, and for once will make an exception in your favour. Advienne que pourra, you shall have your luggage."
Then in the kindest way he personally superintended the matter, delayed the train until the luggage was found, and carried out sundry forms necessary for the next day's journey.
We discovered very little in Narbonne to repay our change of plans, but the hotel was comfortable and the energetic landlady a character worth studying. Grass never grew under her feet. She seemed gifted with ubiquity, and startled one by her rapid movements. A capable woman, who made her little world work with a will, wound them up and set them going. If the machinery flagged, she at once applied the master-key of her energy, and the wheels went on again.
To-day she was on her mettle, as she informed us, having a large wedding dinner on hand. "To-night was the _diner de contrat_, to-morrow the _diner de noce_. A hundred and fifty people would sit down to it, and she expected great conviviality."