Port and harbour--Sunday and fresh air--In the market-place--De Nevada protests--A curse of the country--In the days gone by--On the breakwater--Invaded tramcar--De Nevada confirmed--Another crusade needed--Plaza de Toros--In Sunday dress--Domestic interiors--When the play was o'er--Bull-ring at night--Fitful dreams--Fever--Maître d'hôtel prescribes--Magic effect--Depart for Saguntum--Before the days of Rome--Primitive town--Days of the Greeks--Attacked by Hannibal--Rebuilt by the Romans--Absent guardian--The hunchback--Reappears with custodian--Doors open--Moorish fortress--Fathomless cisterns--Sad procession--Weeping mourners--Key of Valencia--Miguella--Time heals all wounds--Proposes coffee--Proud and pleased--Scenes that remain--In Barcelona--Drawing to a close--Sorrow and regret--Many experiences--Our Espluga friends--Loretta's gratitude--In the Calle de Fernando--A last favour--Glories of Spain--Eastern benediction 481
INTERIOR OF ZARAGOZA CATHEDRAL _Frontispiece_
A FRAGMENT OUTSIDE THE WALLS OF GERONA 59
ENTRANCE TO MILITARY CLOISTERS: GERONA 65
APOSTLES' DOORWAY AND BISHOP'S PALACE: GERONA 83
SAN FILIU, FROM WITHOUT THE WALLS: GERONA 163
PULPIT AND STALLS, BARCELONA CATHEDRAL 195
BRIDGE AND CATHEDRAL OF EL PILAR: ZARAGOZA 339
INTERIOR OF CATHEDRAL, SHOWING CORO AND ORGAN: ZARAGOZA 359
SOUTH-WEST EXTERIOR OF CATHEDRAL: TARRAGONA 373
EAST END OF CATHEDRAL, SHOWING NORMAN APSE: TARRAGONA 377
Know ye the land of the cedar and vine, Where the flowers ever blossom, the beams ever shine; Where the light wings of Zephyr, oppress'd with perfume, Wax faint o'er the gardens of Gúl[A] in her bloom; Where the citron and olive are fairest of fruit, And the voice of the nightingale never is mute; Where the tints of the earth, and the hues of the sky, In colour though varied, in beauty may vie, And the purple of ocean is deepest in dye; Where the virgins are soft as the roses they twine, And all, save the spirit of man, is divine?
On Calais quay--At the Custom-house--A lady of the past--Ungallant examiner--Better to reign than serve--Paris--Vanity Fair--Sowing and reaping--Laughing through life--At the Hôtel Chatham--A pleasant picture--In maiden meditation--M. Pascal is wise in his generation--The secrets of the Seine--Notre Dame--Ile St. Louis--A mediæval atmosphere--Victor Hugo--Ghosts of the Hôtel Lambert--H. C. again--His little comedy--M. the Inspector--Outraged ladies--"En voiture, messieurs!"--Mystery not cleared--The Orléanais--La Vendée--Garden of France--A dilemma--Polite Chef de Gare--Crossing the Garonne--Land of corn and wine.