Charms of Tarragona--Roman traces--Cyclopean remains--Augustus closes Temple of Janus--Great past--House of Pontius Pilate--View from ramparts--Feluccas with white sails set--Life a paradise--City walls--Cathedral outlines--Lively market-place--Remarkable exterior--Dream-world--West doorways--Internal effect--In the cloisters--Proud sacristan--Man of taste and learning--Delighted with our enthusiasm--Great concession--Appealing to the soul--Señor Ancora--Human or angelic?--In the cloister garden--Sacristan's domestic troubles--Silent ecclesiastic--Sad history--Church of San Pablo--Challenge invited--Future genius--Rare picture--Roman aqueduct--A modern Cæsar--Reminiscences--Rich country--Where the best wines are made--Aqueduct--El puente del diablo--Giddy heights--Lonely valley--H. C. sentimental--Rosalie and Fair Costello--Romantic situation--Quarrelsome Reus--Masters of the world--Our driver turns umpire--Battle averted--Men of Reus--Whatever is, is wrong--Driver's philosophy--Dream of the centuries 389
Our ubiquitous host--Curious mixture of nations--Francisco--His enthusiasm carries the point--French lessons--English prejudice--Landlord's lament--Days of fair Provence--Francisco determines to be in time--Presidio--Tomb of the Scipios--Fishing for sardines--Early visit to cathedral--Still earlier sacristan--Francisco's delight--Freshness of early morning--Reus--Bark worse than bite--Where headaches come from--An evil deed--Valley of the Francoli--Moorish remains--Montblanch--The graceful hills of Spain--Espluga--Francisco equal to occasion--Beseiged--Donkeys versus carriage--Interesting old town--Decadence--Singular woman--Loretta's escort--Strange story--Unconscious charm--What happened one Sunday evening--Caro--"The right man never came"--Comes now--How she was betrothed--Primitive conveyance--Making the best of it--Wine-pressers--Loving cup--Nectar of the gods--Fair exchange--Rough drive--Scene of Loretta's adventures 405
A dream-world--Ruins--Chapel of St. George--Archways and Gothic windows--Atmosphere of the Middle Ages--Convent doorway--Summons but no response--Door opens at last--Comfortable looking woman--Ready invention--Confusion worse confounded--True version--Francisco painfully direct--Guardian gets worst of it--Picturesque decay--Gothic cloisters--Visions of beauty--Rare wilderness--King Martin the Humble--Bacchanalian days--When the monks quaffed Malvoisie--Simple grandeur of the church--Philip Duke of Wharton--Cistercian monastery--History of Poblet the monk--Monastery becomes celebrated--Tombs of the kings of Aragon--Guardian sceptical--Paradise or wilderness--Monks all-powerful--Escorial of Aragon--The great traveller--Changing for the worst--Upholding the kingly power--Time rolls on--Downfall--Attacked and destroyed--Infuriated mob--Fictitious treasures--Fiendish act--Massacre--Ruined monastery--Blood-red sunset--Superstition--End of 1835 418