CONGRESS GAITER. A shoe designed especially for comfort, with rubber goring in the sides which adjusts it to the ankle, instead of laces, and sometimes made with lace front to imitate a regular shoe.
CORDOVAN. Originally a Spanish leather made from horsehide. The Spaniards were, for a great many centuries, the best leather makers. The term is applied to a grain leather from the best and strongest part of a horsehide.
COUNTER. The stiffening in the back part of a shoe, often called stiffening, to support the outer leather and prevent the shoe from “running over” at the heel. It is made either of sole leather, shaved thin on the edge and shaped by machinery, as in the best shoes, or composition or paper, in cheap shoes. Metal is occasionally used on the outside of the shoes in heavy goods for miners and furnacemen.
COUPON TAG. A tag from which a coupon is cut for every operation. Operatives hold part of the coupon and the holders of the coupons are paid for the part named.
COWHIDE. Refers to hides of cattle, heavier than kips, which run up to twenty-five pounds each.
CREASING VAMP. Making hollow grooves across the front of the vamp to add to its looks.
CREEDMORE. A man’s heavy lace shoe, with gusset, blucher cut.
CREOLE. A heavy congress work shoe. This shoe, the creedmore, and brogans are usually made of oil grains, kip, or split leather, sometimes pegged, sometimes “stitched down.”
CRIMPING. Shaping any part of the upper so that it will conform to the last better.
CUT-OFF VAMP. One cut off at tip for economy when tip is to be covered by a cap.
DIEING. Cutting soles to fit the last, outsoles, insoles, heel lifts, counters, or half soles, with a machine and a die.
DOM PEDRO. A heavy, one-buckle shoe, with gusset or bellows tongue. Originally it was a patent name for certain shoes made of fine material, but is now applied to cheap grades.
DONGOLA. A heavy, plump goatskin, tanned with a semibright finish.
DRESSING. A process for giving the upper its original finish by means of liquid put on with sponge.
EDGE SETTING. The finishing edge of the sole,--polishing it.
EDGE TRIMMING. Trimming the edge of a sole smoothly to conform to last.
ENAMEL. Leather that is given a shiny finish on the grain side. The process is similar to that of patent leather, only that patent leather is finished on the flesh side, or the surface of the split.