BOTTOM SCOURING. Sandpapering the parts of the sole, except the heel.
BOXING. A term used to designate the stiffening material placed in the toe of a shoe to support it and retain the shape; such as leather, composition of leather and paper, wire net, drilling (a cotton fabric) stiffened with shellac, etc.
BOX CALF. A well-known proprietary leather having a grain of rectangularly crossed lines.
BOX TOE. Used to hold up the toe of the shoe so as to retain the shape. It is generally of sole leather, but often made of canvas or other material and stiffened with shellac or gum.
BREAKING THE SOLE. Molding the sole so as to fit the spring better.
BROGAN. A heavy pegged or nailed work shoe, medium cut in height.
BRUSHING. The final finish of the top edge, heel, and bottom, by means of a brush.
BUCKSKIN. A soft leather, generally yellow or grayish in color. One way of preparing it is by treating deerskins in oil.
BUFF. A split side leather, coarser than glove grain, but otherwise similar. It is used for cheaper grades of shoes, principally for men.
CABARETTA. A tanned sheepskin of superior finish used for shoe stock. There are sheep with wool not far removed from hair in texture, which produce a skin of greater tenacity and finish than the ordinary sheep.
CACK. A sole leather bottom without a heel. An infant’s shoe is called a cack.
CALFSKINS. Skins of meat cattle of all kinds, weighing up to fifteen pounds, are usually included in this term. They make a strong and pliable leather. Calfskins were formerly finished with wax and oil on the flesh side, but can now be made so as to be finished on the “grain,” which is the hair side of the skin.
CARTON. A cardboard box intended for one pair of shoes.
CEMENTING. This is the operation of placing cement on the outsole and the bottom of the welt shoe so that the outsole is held to the shoe by the cement.
CHAMOIS. A leather made from the skins of chamois, calves, deer, goats, sheep, and split hides of other animals.
CHANNELING. Cutting into the sole in such a way that the thread or stitching is away from the surface. In the outsole department it means preparing a place for the stitch. In insoles and turn soles, channeling is done so that soles are prepared to hold the stitching.
