[Sidenote: Not accounted for by Writers on the subject.]

To account for these in and off shore tides, or central and marginal streams, would be interesting. But to what cause shall we ascribe them? Sir Isaac Newton, and the other eminent philosophers who have followed that great man in considering the theory of the tides, confine their attention chiefly to an explanation of the influences of the sun and moon, and the laws of gravitation, in affecting the waters of the ocean, leaving it to the result of experience and observation to account for such anomalies as those to which we now allude. It is noticed by Adair, Mackenzie, and other nautical surveyors, that the tides run longer upon the shore than in the offing, and the advantage of working a ship with _in and off shore tides_, is familiar to every mariner. The existence of these opposite currents was also known to the author, prior to the commencement of the Bell Rock works, but they had not struck him so forcibly till that period. For here, even after the flood-tide had overflowed the rock, and put a stop to the operations, the boats in carrying the artificers on board of the Tender, had still to row against the current of a strong ebb-tide.

An Account of the Bell Rock Light-House — Part 74

[Sidenote: Currents along Shore considered as Eddy-tides.]

An Account of the Bell Rock Light-House — Part 74

It would be foreign to this work to enter into the theory of the tides generally; all, therefore, that is here proposed, is to endeavour to account for these in and off shore currents. In doing this, however, it will be necessary to observe, that the _great wave_ or “theoretical tide,” as it has been termed by the late eminent Professor Robison, is produced by the united attraction of the sun and moon, which, between the Tropics, has been calculated by philosophers to raise the water from 8 to 14 feet perpendicularly. It is observable, that the attractions of these heavenly bodies elevate the parts of the ocean to which they are vertical, without having any direct tendency to progressive or lateral motion. The currents along our coasts, may therefore be considered merely as Eddy-tides, occasioned by the interposition of the land, which obstructs the undulating motion incident to the rise or fall of a fluid. In this manner the land may be said to displace a portion of the tidal waters which have been elevated above the medium level of the sea; and were it not for such obstruction, the great waves of the tide might be supposed to undulate indefinitely over the expanse of the ocean. To compare small things with great, these effects may be conceived as in some degree exemplified, by the disturbing effect of a vessel passing along a navigable canal, or the undulations which are observable in the _wake_ of a ship or wheels of a steam-boat in motion on a smooth sea.

An Account of the Bell Rock Light-House — Part 74