How the Basilica of Palladio looks by the side of an old castellated kind of a building, dotted all over with windows of different sizes (whose removal, tower and all, the artist evidently contemplated),--it is impossible to describe--and besides I must now, by a strange effort, compress my own feelings, for, I too, alas! find here side by side both what I seek and what I fly from.
Yesterday we had the opera, which lasted till midnight, and I was glad to get some rest. The _three Sultanesses_ and the _Rape of the Seraglio_ have afforded several tatters, out of which the piece has been patched up, with very little skill. The music is agreeable to the ear, but is probably by an amateur; for not a single thought struck me as being new. The _ballets_, on the other hand, were charming. The principle pair of dancers executed an _Allemande_ to perfection.
The theatre is new, pleasant, beautiful, modestly magnificent, uniform throughout, just as it ought to be in a provincial town. Every box has hangings of the same color, and the one belonging to the _Capitan Grande_, is only distinguished from the rest, by the fact that the hangings are somewhat longer.
The _prima donna_, who is a great favorite of the whole people, is tremendously applauded, on her entrance, and the "gods" are quite obstreperous with their delight, when she does anything remarkably well, which very often happens. Her manners are natural, she has a pretty figure, a fine voice, a pleasing countenance, and, above all, a really modest demeanour, while there might be more grace in the arms. However, I am not what I was, I feel that I am spoiled, I am spoiled for a "god."
To-day I visited Dr. Tura. Five years ago he passionately devoted himself to the study of plants, formed a _herbarium_ of the Italian flora, and laid out a botanical garden under the superintendence of the former bishop. However, all that has come to an end. Medical practice drove away natural history, the _herbarium_ is eaten by worms, the bishop is dead, and the botanic garden is again _rationally_ planted with cabbages and garlic.
Dr. Tura is a very refined and good man. He told me his history with frankness, purity of mind, and modesty, and altogether spoke in a very definite and affable manner. At the same time he did not like to open his cabinets, which perhaps were in no very presentable condition. Our conversation soon came to a stand-still.