Naples--Bristol Hotel--Via Roma--King Bomba's time--Deterioration of the Neapolitans--Museum--Churches--The Opera-house--English and Italian beauty--Aquarium--Vesuvius--Excursion to Pompeii-- Portici--A novel mode of grooming--The entombed city--Its disinterment--Museum, streets, and buildings--Remarks--A cold drive 151
Unprecedented cold of 1883--Departure from Naples--Virgil's tomb--Journey to Messina--Italy's future--Scylla and Charybdis --Beautiful Messina--The "_Electrico_"--Malta--Knight Crusaders --Maltese Society--An uncommon fish--An earthquake at sea--Journey to Palermo--Picturesque scenery--Etna--Among the mountains--The lights of Palermo 168
Palermo--Oriental aspects--Historical facts--Royal Palace--Count Roger--The Piazzi Planet--The Palatine Chapel--Walk to Monreale --Beauty of the Peasantry--Prickly pears--"The Golden Shell"-- Monreale Cathedral--Abbey and Cloisters--English church--Palermo Cathedral--Churches--Catacombs of the Capuchins--Gardens--Palermo aristocracy--The Bersaglieri--Sicilian life and characteristics --Climate and general features 191
Annexation of Nice and Savoy--Garibaldi's protest--A desperate venture--Calatafimi--Catania--Melazzo--Entry into Naples--Gaeta --The British Contingent--Departure from England--Desertion-- Arrival in Naples--_Colonel_ "Long Shot"--Major H----'s imaginary regiment--Dispersion of the British Contingent 204
Floods in France--London--Back to the South--Marseilles--Italian Emigrant passengers--A death on board--French _impolitesse_ --Italian coast scenery at dawn--Unlimited palaver--Arrival in Leghorn--The "_Lepanto_"--Departure--"Fair Florence"--The Arno --Streets--Palaces--San Miniato--The grand Duomo--The Baptistery --Ghiberti's Bronze Gates 217
Santa Croce--San Lorenzo--Day and Night--Picture-galleries--The Tribune--Venus di Medicis--Excursion to Fiesole--Ancient Amphitheatre--Aurora _Café_--Climate of Florence--Heavy hotel charges--Departure--Bologna sausages--Venice 228
Arrival in Venice--The Water City--Gondola traffic--Past glories --Danieli's Royal Hotel--St. Mark's Piazza--The Sacred Pigeons --St. Mark's--Mosaics--The Holy Columns--Treasures--The Chian Steeds--The modern Goth 241
A water-excursion--The Bridge of Sighs--Doge's Palace--Archæological Museum--The Rialto--The streets of Venice--Aids to disease--Venetian Immorality--The Arsenal--Nautical Museum--Trip to Lido--Glass works --Venetian evenings--The great Piazza--Scene on the Piazzetta-- Farewell to Venice 253