Scenery _en route_--Bordighera--Pegli--Genoa--Its magnificent situation--The grandeur of its past--The Harbour--Streets--Palaces --Cathedral of San Lorenzo--Sacred Catina--Chapel of St. John the Baptist--Italian Beggars--Sudden change in the atmosphere--The Campo Santo--Shops of Genoa--Marble promenade--City of precipices --Climate of Genoa 72
Pisa--Hotel Victoria--Pisan weather--The poet Shelley--Historic Pisa--Lung 'Arno--San Stefano di Canalia--Cathedral--Baptistery --Leaning Tower--Campo Santo--The divine angels--The great chain of Pisa--Leghorn--Smollett's grave--Poste-restante--A sweet thing in Beggars--Ugolino's Tower--Departure for Rome 83
Arrival in Rome--Hotel de la Ville--The Corso--The Strangers' Quarter--Roman Guides--View from the Capitol--"How are the mighty fallen!"--The sculpture-gallery of the Capitol--The Dying Gladiator --The Venus--Hawthorne's Marble Faun--Bambino Santissimo--The Mamertine Prison--The Forum--Palaces--The Coliseum--Longfellow's "Michael Angelo" 92
Trajan's Gate--The Appian Way--The English Cemetery--Catacombs of St. Calixtus--Reflections on the Italian seat of government --Churches--S. Paolo Fuori le Mura--Santa Maria Maggiore--S. Pietro in Vincoli--"Was St. Peter ever in Rome?"--Fountains of Rome--Dell' Aqua Felice--Paulina--Trevi--Rome's famous Aqueducts --Beggars--Priests 106
Papal Rome--Narrow streets--St. Angelo--Benvenuto Cellini--St. Peter's--Pietà Chapel--The Dead Christ--Tomb of the Stuarts-- Anniversary of St. Peter's--Grand ceremonial--Cardinal Howard --The Vatican--Pictures--Pauline and Sistine Chapels--"The Last Judgment"--Pinacoteca--Raphael's "Transfiguration"--"The Madonna"--Christian Martyrs--Sculptures--Tapestries--Leo XIII.--Italian Priesthood--St. John Lateran--Marvellous legends and relics--Native irreverence to sacred edifices 119
Excursion to Tivoli--Sulphur baths--Memories--Temple of the Sybil --River Anio--Lovely scenery--Back to Rome--Post-office--Careless officials--The everlasting "Weed"--Climate of Rome--Discomforts and disappointments--Young Italy--Leo XIII.--Italian Politics--Cessation of Brigandage--The new City--American church--_Italian Times_-- Departure for Naples--Regrets--The Three Taverns--A picturesque route--Naples by night 137