Sounding-Spars—_Foogee Yama_—Entrance to the Bay of Yedo—Precautionary Measures—Uraga—Troops—“Old Hundred”—Sounding—Yezimon—Gorihama—_The_ Landing—Joust or Tourney—Audience—President’s Letter—Anecdotal—Fortifications—Sounding—Japanese Presents—Costume—Junks—Leave Japan—A Burial at Sea—A Cyclone—Loo-Choo 143
China—The Rebellion—Hong Hospitality—Blenheim Reach—Torrid—Consular Courts—Canton—Feast of the Lanterns—Howqua’s Garden—Sallie Baboos—Cum-sing-Moon—Death of an Officer—Opium Hulks—The Traffic—Effects of Opium—Its Sale—Smuggling—Emperor of Japan Dead—Loss of Boat’s Crew of the Plymouth—The American Commissioner—Around the Walls of Canton—Chance for a Wife—Temple of Honan—Hong Kong 176
Leave China for Second Visit to Japan—Formosa—Napa-Keang—A Refugee not a Koszta—Proselyting—Dr. Bettelheim and a Loo-Chooan Sangrado—Coal Dépôt—Sheudi—Cumshaws—Off for the Bay of Yedo—Dangerous Navigation—Snow—Macedonian Ashore Foogee Yama—Bay of Yedo—Where to Negotiate—22d of February—Japanese Boats—Visiters—Japanese at Dinner—Swords—Aversion to the Cross—The Landing—The Commissioners—The Audience—Answer to the President’s Letter—A Japanese Repast—Their Troops—“T’su-bi-ki”—Coal—A Christian Burial in Japan—American Presents—An Ericsson Two Centuries Ago—A Chaplain—Negotiations—Japanese Presents—Athletes—Entertainment of Japanese Commissioners—Signing of the Treaty—Yezimon—Attempt to reach Yedo—The “Happy Despatch”—Emperor in Disguise—Leave Bay of Yedo for Simoda 204
Simoda or Lower Field—Surveying—Japanese Spies—Temples—Sintooism—Another Pilgrim’s Progress—A Night’s Lodging—Bargaining—Japanese Women—Indiscriminate Bathing—Turtle Soup—An Adventure—Buddhist Temple—Midnight Visiters—In a Cage—Japanese Epistolarians—A Great Secret—Defences—Foogee Yama 264
Departure for Hakodadi—Ohosima—Printing at Sea—Straits of Sangar—Arrive at Hakodadi—Magnificent Bay—The City—A Stampede—Interview with the Authorities—Arranging the Currency—Purchasing—A Large Temple—Bonzes—Worshipping—Order of the Blind—A View from Hakodadi Yama—A Lion Playing Painter—Ni! Ni!—A Fort—Burials from the Vandalia—Japanese and Ethiopics—Arrival of Functionaries—Characteristic Communications—Hakodadi Eggs—Leave Hakodadi—Fog 292