The dress of the _aub-dar_ generally resembles that of the _khedmutgar_, and his wages may rank with the superior classes serving in that capacity: he has, in general, some perquisites, both in charging for more salt-petre than is used, and from the sale of the salt-petre water; which, throughout Calcutta, and in many other places, is carefully preserved in large jars, to be sold to persons who boil it down for the purpose of producing the nitre in a more purified state. _Aub-dars_ should not be allowed to cool water within the house; the salt-petre doing considerable injury to the walls, from which it cannot possibly be extracted.
Wherever a gentleman dines, thither his _aub-dar_ repairs, in time to have water cooled as the dinner is served up: when a large party are assembled, it is curious to see perhaps two dozens of these servants, laboring at their profession under the shade of the house, and making a noise not very dissimilar to the quick motion of a stone-saw. Custom occasions it to pass unheeded, unless so far as relates to the anticipation of a cool draught. It should be remarked, that water is the common beverage: the smallest hole in the bottom of a _soories_ utterly spoils it; therefore the defect must be well closed with solder. All the wine used at the table is cooled by the host’s own servant; though, when any particularly famous _aub-dar_ is in attendance, he is often asked to exert his skill: a request always complied with, in a manner fully exhibiting that vanity pervades this, as well as other classes of mortals.
The _Compadore_, or _Kurz-burdar_, or _Butler-konnah-sircar_, are all designations for the same individual, who acts as purveyor, sometimes under the orders of the master, but more generally of the _kansamah_, who never fails to participate of the profits made by over-charges, and by the receipt of _dustooree_, (or customary gift,) from the venders of whatever may be provided for domestic, consumption. This servant may be considered as appertaining to the order of _sircars_, of which he should possess all the cunning, the smooth tongue, the audacious and persevering effrontery, when maintaining a palpable lie, together with that obsequiousness which should conciliate master, and make him believe it! Without these, the _compadore_ could never thrive. The pay of such a rogue is generally about four, or, at the utmost, five, rupees per mensem; but that is comparatively no object, in any family where some hundreds are spent in house-keeping. In order to aid the deception, he invariably dresses so very meanly, as to claim our commiseration in behalf of his apparent poverty: while, at the same time, it is probable that, one way or other, he contrives to retain about an eighth part of the money entrusted to his disbursement. The usual custom is, for the _kansamah_ to enquire, during the evening, what is to be done in the culinary department on the succeeding day: if the family dine abroad, no directions are necessary; otherwise, fish, flesh, and fowl must be laid in. As the best of the market is between day-light and sun-rise, after which all the prime articles will have disappeared, the _compadore_ must proceed with his catalogue of desiderata, attended by one or two under-servants, (_mosaulchies_, _kalashies_, &c.) to purchase the required articles. No time must be lost in returning home, at least during the hot months; for such is the rapid progress towards putrefaction, that I have more than once seen veal, which had been killed after midnight, become perfectly offensive in ten hours, notwithstanding every possible precaution was taken to keep it cool.