We had barely got on to the platform with our luggage when the booking office, as if by magic, was invaded by a howling screaming pack of men trying to force their way through a hastily closed door into the station. The voices of the officials demanding order were drowned by the noise, but the speedy arrival of a couple of stalwart Turkish soldiers armed with formidable-looking whips, which they applied impartially to the heads and shoulders of the unruly mob, soon created a dispersion, and peaceable passengers were allowed to take their tickets. This sudden raid on the railway station was made by a number of unauthorised porters, who had become a grave source of annoyance to travellers. The officials were determined to rid themselves of the nuisance, and the order of "No admittance" was being put into effect that day. The Arab seems incapable of learning obedience through any medium but that of corporal punishment. Whether he can be taught reason by less drastic treatment under a more reasonable form of government has yet to be proved. At present, the only law he condescends to understand is represented in tangible form by a powerful soldier armed with a weapon which he promptly uses, indifferent to life or limb of the offender. This measure, if not pleasing, is at any rate effectual.
The railroads from Jaffa to Jerusalem, and from Beirût to Damascus, are justly considered to be the most valuable innovation from the West. The primary idea of the French Company who work them was, that the thousands of pilgrims who visit the Holy Land every year would use the line as a shorter and less expensive mode of travelling. The original idea has developed, for the demands of commerce require goods trains, and merchants are not slow to avail themselves of these advantages. Besides this, the railways have proved a powerful means of breaking down ancient prejudice and bringing the larger culture and refinement of the West within reach of the more ignorant but intelligent East. We found the train service moderately good, the officials civil, and the route pleasant and full of interest. We travelled for the first few stages in the men's compartment which was large and airy, built like a modern tramcar, with an extra seat extending the whole length of the centre; windows and door were wide open, the former protected by blinds, so it was not to be wondered at that we should prefer this carriage to the narrow stifling compartment reserved for the women. The advent of three ladies excited no comment, for were we not "Frangis"? And "Frangis" did extraordinary things! Our fellow-passengers were nearly all Orientals. Magnificently turbaned and gorgeously dressed Moslem gentlemen sat side by side with dirty, travel-stained pilgrims, and dirtier pedlars from distant lands. Jewish and Armenian merchants held lively discussions about the price of stuffs, while two German colonists discoursed on the approaching visit of Kaiser William. A wretched, miserably clad soldier-boy occupied a corner; he was going to join his regiment, and looked sullen and downcast. I offered him an orange, which he accepted, for the day was hot. I felt sorry for him, poor fellow, for well he knew that a Turkish soldier's life "is not a happy one."