During my stay at Malta, the late Dr. Alexander, the first Protestant bishop in Jerusalem, arrived at that island, accompanied by his family and suite, _en route_ for his new see. I shall never forget my amazement on being introduced to that prelate, to find that he wore no beard. A bishop without a beard was a perfect marvel to me, and a thing unheard of in the East; in short, perfectly fabulous. This excellent man condescended to ask my opinion on many points connected with the East, and I made so bold as to tell him, that if he wished to pass for a bishop amongst the natives of Syria, he must let his beard grow without further delay.
Malta was a great novelty to me—the beauty of the scenery—the bustle of the place—the frigates, steamers, schooners, boats, carriages, soldiers, bands of music, friars, nuns, and a vast concourse of people in every imaginable costume, and speaking every known tongue. All these perplexed, astonished, and delighted me at one and the same time; and a drive in the environs of Valetta was a perfect treat. At Malta I first got an idea of European manners; and I must own, my astonishment was very great to see the females, with faces perfectly uncovered, chatting in the greatest familiarity with the opposite sex, and it was to me quite incomprehensible. But my greatest astonishment was excited at a ball to which I was invited. The waltzing, polkaing, etc., appeared to me a most ridiculous and indecent exhibition; and it was a long time before this feeling wore off. I have to this day been unable to find out how any pleasure can be derived from a constant spinning round like the sails of a mill.
It was not without much regret that I quitted the island—a perfect scene of enchantment—and the kind, hospitable acquaintances I had formed during my brief stay. His excellency the governor had been good enough to exert his influence in procuring me a passage on board of a war-steamer on the point of leaving for England. Such an opportunity was not to be thrown away, so hurrying down to the water-side, I embarked, on board H. M.’s steam-frigate Gorgon, Captain W. H. Henderson, C.B., 28th February, 1842. I had leisure to survey the busy scene around us before the vessel finally started. Shore-boats were plying around, offering for sale fruits, cigars, and canary birds. On board all was order and silence; around, all confusion, shouting, and quarrelling, and whilst mentally occupied in drawing this comparison, the anchor was weighed and we steamed rapidly away from the pleasant shores of the island of Malta.