From _Mohatz_, we travelled on to _Tulna_, and from thence to _Felduar_. There I passed over the _Danube_, into an Island, pretty large, called _Cophis_, inhabited by _Rascians_; and so repassing the _Danube_, I arrived at _Buda_ twelve Days after I left _Belgrade_, _August_ the 4th, having lost many of my Horses by the way, who were choaked with eating new Barley, and drinking over-cold Water. Besides, I narrowly escaped Robbers, which these Countries are much infested with, especially by those they call _Heydukes_, some of which were afterwards taken, and put to death at _Buda_, where they confessed to the _Bashaw_ thereof, that they lay in wait for me and my Train, under a broken Bridge we were to pass, that so they might assault us unawares. The Truth is, a few may very easily circumvent and destroy a great many Passengers on such Bridges; for the Bridges are ill-built, and the Planks are set so wide, and gaping one from another, that you can scarce go over them safe on Horseback, without danger of falling, if you are never so careful; and if some meet you before, others will fall on your Rear, and others start out from the Reeds and Sedges below, where they hide themselves, and so accost you in the Flank, and you can hardly manage your Horse for Self-defence, by reason of the badness of the Bridge: No doubt you may be treated as the _Romans_ were in the _Caudine Streights_; be either taken, or killed, at Pleasure. I know not what it was that deterred them from assaulting us; whether it were our Numbers, or the Sight of the _Hungarians_ with us; or because we were in a long Train, and all were not on the Bridge at once; or whatever else it was that withheld them, by God’s Blessing, we got safe to _Buda_. The _Bashaw_ of the Town was not then at home; he was gone to _Pest_, on the other side of the River, where they had a Council of War, after the manner of the _Hungarians_, they call them _Rachi_. Many _Sanziacks_ were already come thither, but more were expected; for which Cause, when I desired Audience, ’twas put off for three Days, that the _Janizaries_ and military Persons might make a greater Show. Then I was sent for over, and conveyed to his Tent, where he made Complaints to me of the Injuries that some _Hungarians_ had done him. It is usual, in those frontier Garrisons, both for _Hungarians_ and _Turks_, mutually to complain of one another; yea, sometimes they, that are most in Fault, begin to complain first. The _Turkish_ Bashaw also added some threatning Expressions of Revenge. It may be, he thought that the Sight of his Army would terrify me; but he was mistaken. I answered him roundly, that the _Hungarians_ might rather find Fault with the _Turks_, than on the contrary; for I my self, in my Travels, had seen some of his Soldiers plunder some _Hungarians_, Subjects of his Imperial Majesty, and carry away their Goods. He answered me, he had indeed put some contumacious _Christians_ under military Execution; but they were such as were under his Master, not the Emperor. Thus, after a mutual Altercation, I was dismissed, being in very bad plight, for my Ague-Fit was strong upon me all that Day.
Art Digest
Travels into Turkey — Part 52
2026-11-15 06:10:35 · The Daily Ledger
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