Fig. 5 shows the side and Fig. 6 the front elevation of a mitre shoot for shooting the mitres of the ends of risers. The sides are two 9-inch boards, set up at 45°, and screwed to the bottom, marked D, and to the back, marked H. Two ledges are screwed on the bottom, marked N. Also a longer piece on the top, in front, marked C, for the trying plane to slide on when shooting the mitres. A false bottom is put in, and set up at 45°, marked B, this is screwed or nailed through the sides, and kept ½ inch above C, as shown. The triangular piece is put in, and the bottom side S P is kept the thickness of a bracket above B, and S P must be the exact size of the thickness of the string where the risers fit against it. The risers are put in with the shoulders against S R and shot off. The brackets can be mitred in the same way. This box will do for any job by having different triangular pieces.
Fig. 7 shows how to get out the continuation of the brackets along the top landing, and finish against the wall. It often happens that the brackets require to be reduced in length for unders or diminished flyers, or increased for a large well, or where the risers are farther apart than on the straight flights. Figs. 8 and 9 show methods of reducing or increasing the length of the brackets, and each member proportionately. It is only necessary to describe one, as the method for both is the same. Let A be the given, and B the required bracket. Having drawn the bracket A, set off C E at any angle, the required length. Join D E, draw any number of lines on the bracket A, square to C D, draw these lines parallel to D E, and from where they cut C E square outline, and make them equal corresponding lines on the bracket A, as 3, 4 and 5 on B will equal 3, 4 and 5 on A. These brackets for the circular parts may be got out of wood; in that case the grain should be vertical, as the brackets are fixed. But for painted work the best are two pieces of linoleum glued together.
Fig. 10 shows how the cut string, which is 12 inches wide, may be got out of a 9-inch board. Shoot the bottom edge, then gauge a line on its face to equal S S, Fig. 2. Then with the compasses set off on this line, the hypothenuse of the pitch board as many times as is required, as shown by N R S H. Then with the steel square mark each going and rise, which cut, it will be found the board is not wide enough, but the pieces cut out of the corners can be glued on to make it out as shown by A and B.