When he looked at the pictures--that famous Houghton collection--the surprise of Horace was excessive. Accustomed to see nothing elsewhere but daubs, he gazed with ecstasy on them. 'The majesty of Italian ideas,' he says, 'almost sinks before the warm nature of Italian colouring! Alas! don't I grow old?'
As he lingered in the gallery, with mingled pride and sadness, a party arrived to see the house--a man and three women in riding-dresses--who 'rode post' through the apartments. 'I could not,' he adds, 'hurry before them fast enough; they were not so long in seeing the whole gallery as I could have been in one room, to examine what I knew by heart. I remember formerly being often diverted with this kind of _seers_; they come, ask what such a room is called in which Sir Robert lay, write it down, admire a lobster or a cabbage in a Market Piece, dispute whether the last room was green or purple, and then hurry to the inn, for fear the fish should be over-dressed. How different my sensations! not a picture here but recalls a history; not one but I remembered in Downing Street, or Chelsea, where queens and crowds admired them, though seeing them as little as these travellers![5]
[5: Sir Robert Walpole purchased a house and garden at Chelsea in 1722, near the college, adjoining Gough House.--Cunningham's 'London.']
After tea he strolled into the garden. They told him it was now called a _pleasure-ground._ To Horace it was a scene of desolation--a floral Nineveh. 'What a dissonant idea of pleasure!--those groves, those _allées_, where I have passed so many charming moments, were now stripped up or overgrown--many fond paths I could not unravel, though with an exact clue in my memory. I met two gamekeepers, and a thousand hares! In the days when all my soul was tuned to pleasure and vivacity (and you will think perhaps it is far from being out of tune yet), I hated Houghton and its solitude; yet I loved this garden, as now, with many regrets, I love Houghton--Houghton, I know not what to call it--a monument of grandeur or ruin!'
Although he did not go with the expectation of finding a land flowing with milk and honey, the sight of all this ruin long saddened his thoughts. All was confusion, disorder, debts, mortgages, sales, pillage, villainy, waste, folly, and madness. The nettles and brambles in the park were up to his shoulders; horses had been turned into the garden, and banditti lodged in every cottage.