PAGE INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 1 CHAPTER I. Reminiscences of early Childhood—My Birth-place—Sheikh 5 Faris Biridi—Early Tuition—Family Customs—Position of Shuay-fât, and Pastures—Inhabitants—Author quits for Beyrout CHAPTER II. Beyrout—Piratical Attack—Flight to Mountains—Effects of 14 the Assault upon the Inhabitants CHAPTER III. Damascus—Author’s First visit to—Description of the 18 Town—The Inhabitants—The Customs and Manners—The Ladies—Their Beauty and Freedom—Court-yards and Houses—Bazaars—Environs—Soirées—Games—Specimens of Poetry and Songs—Wonderful Legend—Refreshments—Entertainment given by the British Consul—Privileges of Christians—Padre Tomaso—American and British Missions—Population—Antiquity—Ravages by Cholera CHAPTER IV. Return to Beyrout—American Mission—Original Difficulties 41 they encountered—How overcome—The Estimation of Physicians—Anecdote of Mr. Zohrab—American Doctors—Introduction to School—Reminiscences of School-days—Anecdote of Sheikh Ahmed—Lists of Missionaries—Adventure of Mr. Bird—The Pacha’s Revenge—Description of the Rise of the Settlement and trade at Beyrout—Climate, Hints with regard to CHAPTER V. Visit to Cyprus—Description of Voyage—Arrival at 57 Larnaca—Visit to Nicosia and other towns—Cyprus Wines—Languages—Departure for Tersous—Arrival at Mersine—Scenery in Cilicia—Gardens—Buildings of Tersous—Streets—Climate—Inhabitants—Signor Michael Saba—Adana—Its Shops and Streets—Inhabitants—Fanaticism—Revolts—Pacha’s Service—The Pass of Kulek Bughas—Scenery—Departure for Ayas CHAPTER VI. Ayas to Scanderoon—Scanderoon to Aleppo—Description of 71 Journey—The Aleppines—Their Style and Polish—A Wedding described—Syrian Step-mothers—Jewish and Christian quarters—Earthquake of 1822—Pastimes and Garden Parties—Population—Commerce—Departure for Antioch—Gessir il Haded—Orontes—Antioch CHAPTER VII. Antioch—Its Beauty and Fruitfulness—Visit to Suedia and 85 Lattakia—Signor Mosi Elias—Hardships endured by Consular Agents—Anecdote of English Travellers—Uses and Abuses of the Protection System—Fanaticism of Moslem Populace—Produce—Lattakia to Tripoli—Oranges—Abu Rish—Signor Catsoflis—A fair Intercessor for Justice to the Injured—Results of the Appeal—Cedars of Lebanon—Baalbec—Anecdote of English Forces—Turjaman Bashi—Strange Character of Sayid Ali—Damascus—Djouni and Sidon—Lady Hesther—General Loustannau—Description of Sidon—Bombardment of St. Jean d’Acre—Kaipha and Mount Carmel—Mistaken Ideas of Love CHAPTER VIII. First visit to England—Sail for Malta—Miseries of 122 Seasickness—Arrival at Malta—The Emir Beschir—Late Bishop of Jerusalem—Steam Frigate Gorgon—Arrival at Portsmouth—Rev. Baptist Noel—London—Souvenir of Wimbledon—A Duel prevented—Anecdote of Druse Sheikh—Return to Syria—Sir George Otway—Arrival at Beyrout—War between Druses and Maronites—Stamboul—Emir Kasim, his History—Lord Cowley—Dr. Bennett—Mr. Goodall—Return to England—Malta—Marseilles—Adventure with French Officer—M. Guizot—Suliman Pacha—M. Thiers—Delicate Mission—Arrival in England—Prince Callimaki—Mr. Zohrab—Mr. B. Phillips—King’s College, London—Medical Profession—Lectures—Frightful Accident—Long Illness—Admission as Member of King’s College—The Mir Shahamet Ali and Sir C. Wade—Visit to Manufacturing Districts—Lamartine CHAPTER IX. Visit to Paris—First Impressions—Boulevards—Champs 164 Elysées—Description of a Lodging-house—Domestic Habits of the French—English and French Friendship—Departure for Constantinople _viâ_ Vienna CHAPTER X. Reminiscences of Stamboul—Entertainments—Songs—The Tailor 170 and the Sultan—The Sultan’s Condescension—Marriage of the Daughter of Prince Vogiredis—Turkish Navy—Present Crisis—A Renegade Girl CHAPTER XI. Egypt—Abbas Pasha and his Improvements—The British 184 Consul-General—Mr. Abet—Mr. Larking—Boghas Bey—Antiquities—Climate—Library—Advantages enjoyed by European Residents—Festivities—Fulfilment of Prophecy—Late Gift of Horses presented by Nubar Bey to her Majesty—The Hon. G. Massey—Impressions made on the Grooms CHAPTER XII. Visit to Devonshire, Bath, and Cheltenham—Visit to Lady 197 Rolle—Description of Bicton—Travelling by an Express Train—A Coachman’s Remarks—The Park—Arrival and Reception—Description of my Life—My Portrait taken—Amusements—Conversation with Mrs.