Geneva.--Calvin and jewelry.--Up Lake Leman.--Ouchy and Lausanne.--"Sweet Clarens."--Chillon.--Freyburg.-- Sight-seers.--The Last Judgment.--Berne and its bears.--The town like a story.--The Lake of Thun.-- Interlaken.--Over the Wengern Alp.--The Falls of Giessbach.--The Brunig Pass.--Lucerne again. 201
Coming home.--The breaking up of the party.--We start for Paris alone.--Basle, and a search for a hotel.-- The twilight ride.--The shopkeeper whose wits had gone "a wool-gathering."--"Two tickets for Paris."-- What can be the matter now?--Michel Angelo's Moses.-- Paris at midnight.--The kind _commissionaire_.--The good French gentleman and his fussy little wife.--A search for Miss H.'s.--"Come up, come up."--"Can women travel through Europe alone?" A word about a woman's outfit. 220
We two alone.--"Good by."--"Are you the captain of this ship?"--Wretchedness.--The jolly Englishman and the Yankee.--A sail!--The cattle-man.--The Jersey-man whose bark was on the sea.--Church services under difficulties.--The sweet young English face.--Down into the depths to worship.--"Beware! I stand by the Parson."--Singing to the fishes.--Green Erin.--One long cheer.--Farewell Ireland.
WE were going to Europe, Mrs. K. and I--alone, with the exception of the ship's company--unprotected, save by Him who watches over the least of his creatures. We packed our one trunk, upon which both name and nationality were conspicuously blazoned, with the necessaries, not luxuries, of a woman's toilet, and made our simple preparations for departure without a shadow of anxiety. "They who know nothing, fear nothing," said the paterfamilias, but added his consent and blessing. The rain poured in torrents as we drove down to the wharf. But floods could not have dampened our enthusiasm. A wild Irishman, with a suggestion of spirituous things in his air and general appearance, received us at the foot of the plank, one end of which touched earth, the other that unexplored region, the steamer. We followed the direction of his dirty finger, and there fell from our eyes, as it were, scales. In our ignorance, we had expected to find vast space, elegant surroundings, glass, glare, and glitter. We peered into the contracted quarters of the ladies' cabin. One side was filled with boxes and bundles; the other, with the prostrate form of an old lady, her head enveloped in a mammoth ruffle. We explored the saloon. The purser, with a wen and a gilt-banded cap on his head, was flying about like one distracted. An old gentleman similarly attired, with the exception of the wen,--the surgeon as we afterwards learned,--read a large book complacently in one corner, murmuring gently to himself. His upper teeth lacked fixity, so to speak; and as they fell with every word, he had the appearance of gnashing them continually at the invisible author. There was a hurrying to and fro of round, fresh-faced stewards in short jackets, a pushing and pulling of trunks and boxes, the sudden appearance and disappearance of nondescript individuals in slouched hats and water-proofs, the stirring about of heavy feet upon the deck above, the rattling of chains, the 'yo-ing' of hoarse voices, as the sailors pulled at the ropes, and, with it all, that sickening odor of oil, of dead dinners--of everything, so indescribable, so never-to-be-forgotten. Somewhat saddened, and considerably enlightened upon the subject of ocean steamers, we sought our state-room. It boasted two berths (the upper conveniently gained by mounting the stationary wash-stand), and a velvet-covered sofa beneath the large, square window, which last we learned, months later, when reduced to a port-hole for light and air, to appreciate. A rack and half a dozen hooks against the wall completed its furniture.