The first thing a maker looks for in the morning is the FUR, or raw material, which is furnished to him by _weight_; the quantity being more or less, according to the substance of the Hat required, and is in _two_ parcels, one of which contains the BEAVER, or napping; the other the BODY (a proportionate scale of both will be seen hereafter). Thus provided he takes it to the BOW GARRET; the materials for the body are first placed on the hurdle, and the bow being hung at the centre for support, is held in the left hand horizontally, so that the catgut may come in contact with the fur; in the _right_ hand is placed a small piece of stick, with a _nut_ at the end, and in this position the work begins after the following manner. The _catgut_ of the bow (being first placed in the midst of the _fur_) is pulled or struck with the knotted stick, which produces, from a quick repetition of the stroke, a continued _vibration_, this _vibration_ it is that causes a separation or _flitting_ of the fur, at the same time mixing and cleansing it. This operation is continued until such ends are fully attained. It is next divided into _halves_, one of which is laid aside, and the other again bowed over. In this second operation the workman contrives, partly by bowing, and partly by a slight _wicker frame_, to bring the material into an oblong form, and equal in size to a large sheet of cartridge paper; this is called a BAT, and when done it is gently _pressed down_ by the _wicker_, after which a damp linen cloth is laid all over, and on this again is placed a thick piece of dry HORSE HIDE; the workman now begins to press hard on the hide for about five minutes; in the doing this the fur adheres close to the damp cloth, into which it is _doubled up_, and once more undergoes the pressure of the hand. Under this operation (which is called BASONING) the _bat_ becomes _consolidated_, and may be thrown, when taken out of the cloth, from one end of the garret to the other without injury. The second half is next bowed, formed into a _bat_, and _basoned_ as the first. This half _remains_ on _the hurdle_, and a piece of _paper_, somewhat conical, is placed on it, _over which_, and agreeable to the shape, the sides of the bat are _doubled_. Here then is formed one half of the _body_, this is laid aside, and the first bat is then put flat on the hurdle _on which_ the one previously doubled is placed with its open part downwards; the lower bat being transversely doubled over the top hat, forms a sort of conical, or harlequin’s cap; in this state it is once more put into the damp cloth, where it receives another hardening for the purpose of uniting or _knitting_ both _bats_ together; after this it is folded into the compass of _two hands_, ready for the _plank_. The next thing is the _beaver_, or covering, which is bowed in _form_ to correspond with the _body_, but has nothing to do with it in this stage.
Wellness Journal
Lloyd's Treatise on Hats — Part 15
2026-11-15 04:22:19 · The Daily Ledger
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