The allusion to the time of year at which the wine was to be drunk throws a light upon a practice of the day, confirmed by other passages in this correspondence. Much of the wine made was drunk as _vin bourru_ fined, but not racked off, at the beginning of the year, or as _tocane_, which was apt to go off if kept beyond Shrovetide. This speedy consumption and the careful choice made of the grapes intended for _vin mousseux_ militated against the formation in the bottles of that deposit, which, up to the commencement of the present century, when the system of _dégorgeage_ was introduced, could only be remedied by _dépotage_,[127] though, as we have seen, the Abbey of Hautvillers had a secret method, carefully guarded, of checking its formation.[128]
It is singular that the presence of a natural _liqueur_--the consequence of a complete but not excessive ripeness of the grape, and at present considered one of the highest qualities of the wine--was, at the commencement of the eighteenth century, regarded as a disease. The _Mémoire_ of 1718 states that when the wine has any liqueur, however good it may otherwise be, it is not esteemed, and recommends the owner to get rid of this 'bad quality' forthwith by putting a pint of new milk warm from the cow into each _pièce_, stirring it well, letting it rest three days, and then racking the wine off. At this epoch the wine of the Champagne seems to have been preferred perfectly dry.[129] In June 1716 the Marshal d'Artagnan reproached Bertin du Rocheret for sending him Hautvillers wine of the preceding vintage which had turned out _liquoreuse_. However, in August he felt forced to write that it had become excellent, and similar experiences seem to have soon removed all prejudices against this liqueur character. Bertin, in 1725, speaks of it as one of the qualities of wine, and charges for it in proportion; and six years later remarks that the English are as mad for liqueur and colour in their wines as the French.[130]
Temporary check to the popularity of Sparkling Champagne--Doctors disagree--The champions of Champagne and Burgundy--Péna and his patient--A young Burgundian student attacks the Wine of Reims--The Faculty of Reims in arms--A local Old Parr cited as an example in favour of the Wines of the Champagne--Salins of Beaune and Le Pescheur of Reims engage warmly in the dispute--A pelting with pamphlets--Burgundy sounds a war-note--The Sapphics of Benigné Grenan--An asp beneath the flowers--The gauntlet picked up--Carols from a Coffin--Champagne extolled as superior to all other wines--It inspires the heart and stirs the brain--The apotheosis of Champagne foam--Burgundy, an invalid, seeks a prescription--Impartially appreciative drinkers of both wines--Bold Burgundian and stout Rémois, each a jolly tippling fellow--Canon Maucroix's parallel between Burgundy and Demosthenes and Champagne and Cicero--Champagne a panacea for gout and stone--Final decision in favour of Champagne by the medical faculty of Paris--Pluche's opinion on the controversy--Champagne a lively wit and Burgundy a solid understanding--Champagne commands double the price of the best Burgundy--Zealots reconciled at table.