In the house, if much valued, they are given a cage; but in countries where they are common they are let run about free.
FOOD.--In their wild state they live on insects and grain. In the house they are fed, if in a cage, on millet, hemp seed, and prepared oats; if at liberty in a room the universal paste suits them very well. These birds, being rather delicate, cannot often be preserved beyond three or four years.
DISEASES.--The most common disease of these birds is atrophy, to cure or prevent which it is necessary to know how properly to mix and vary animal with vegetable food; but this calls for a greater degree of attention and care than most persons are willing to give.
MANNER OF TAKING.--In spring these birds are easily attracted to a decoy bush, by a female of their own species, or a yellowhammer. In August a turfy place should be chosen near brambles, to form a small area, as a decoy, like that made for chaffinches. It must be surrounded with a low hedge, with some oat-ears fastened to it. About the area should be placed one or several birds of call, especially a perching bird, that is to say, a bird of the same species, with a band of soft leather round it, and confined by a small string, fastened to a peg-stick in the ground, which prevents its going beyond the prescribed limits. Here it should be given plenty of food and water, in order that the birds to be caught may be the more easily attracted within the area, from seeing one of their own species in a place of abundance. This kind of decoy bird is often more necessary than any other.
ATTRACTIVE QUALITIES.--The fine form and colours of the ortolan would be sufficient to render it desirable, but still more so its flute-like warbling, so clear and full, which has some resemblance to that of the yellowhammer, only that the last notes are much deeper.
Ever since ortolans have been known to epicures as a delicacy, they have been fattened with great care. The common way is to keep them in a room only lighted by lanterns, so that they cannot distinguish day from night: they are then plentifully fed on oats, millet, and the crumb of white bread, made up with good spice. In a short time they become so fat that they would be suffocated if not killed at once. An ortolan thus fed is a perfect ball of most delicious fat, weighing about three ounces.