[74] _Eighty Years of Progress of the United States_ (New York, 1861), vol. 2, pp. 413-429.
[75] GEORGE GIFFORD, "Argument of [George] Gifford in Favor of the Howe Application for Extension of Patent" (New York: United States Patent Office, 1860).
[77] _Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures_ (United States Census Office, published Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865), "Women's Ready-Made Clothing," p. 83.
[79] National Archives, Record Group 92, Office of the Quartermaster General, Clothing Book, Letters Sent, volume 17.
[80] The author wishes to acknowledge the valuable help of Mr. Donald Kloster of the Smithsonian Institution's Division of Military History for the preceding four references and related information.
[81] Letter of Nov. 4, 1871, to Col. Theo. A. Dodge, USA (Ret.), Boston, from Quartermaster General M. C. Meigs, in the National Archives, Record Group 92, Quartermaster General's Office, Letters Sent, Clothing Supplies, 1871.
[82] _Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900_, vol. 10, _Manufactures_, Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United States Census Office, Washington, D.C., 1902).
[83] CHARLES M. KARCH, "Needles: Historical and Descriptive," in _Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900_, vol. 10, _Manufactures_, Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United States Census Office: Washington, D.C., 1902), pp. 429-432.
[84] U.S. patent 1,931,447, issued to Valentine Naftali, Henry Naftali, and Rudolph Naftali, Oct. 17, 1933. The Naftali machines are manufactured by the American Machine and Foundry Company and are called AMF Stitching Machines.
[85] See Appendix V, p. 135, "A Brief History of Cotton Thread."
[86] _The Story of Cotton Thread_ (New York, The Spool Cotton Company, 1933).
[89] New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Kentucky. _Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures_ (United States Census Office, published by Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865.)
[90] Sewing-machine manufacture in the South was just beginning to blossom when it was curtailed by the outbreak of the Civil War. See Lester sewing machine, figure 109 on page 102.