The writer notes two exceptions. Doubtless there may be others.
At the quaint little Seine-side town of Vetheuil, near La Roche-Guyon, which fits snugly in the southeast corner of Normandy, one enters the tobacco-shop to buy a picture post-card, perhaps, of its quaint little church, so loved by artists, and there he will find an unassuming little man who retails tobacco to the natives and souvenir postal cards to strangers while chatting glibly in either tongue.
At the Hôtel Bellevue in Les Andelys is a waitress who speaks excellent English; though you may be a guest of the house for months and talk in English daily with your artist-neighbour across the table, and not know that she understands a word of what you say,--which surely indicates great strength of mind on the part of this estimable woman, though the circumstance has proved embarrassing.
In this connection it is curious to note the influx of English words into the Gallic tongue. Most of these words have been taken up by the world of sport and fashion, and have not yet reached the common people.
One can, if he is ingenious, carry on quite a conversation with a young man about town, whom one may meet at table d'hôte or at a café, either at the capital or in the larger towns, without knowing a word of French, and without his realizing that he knows English.
"_Gentleman_," "_tennis_," and "_golf_"; "_yacht_," "_yachting_," and "_mail-coach_"; "_garden-party_," "_handicap_," and "_jockey_,"--all these are equally well-known and understood of the modern Frenchman. "_Very smart_" is heard once and again of a "_swell_" turnout drawn by a pair of "_high-steppers_."
For clothing the Frenchman of fashion affects "_waterproofs_," "_snow-boots_," "_leggings_," and "_knickerbockers_," and he travels in a "_sleeping-car_" when he can afford their outrageously high charges. When it comes to his menu--more's the pity--he too often affects the "_mutton-chop_" and the "_beefsteak_" in the "_grill-room_" of a "_music-hall_."
The fact is only mentioned here as showing a widespread affectation, which, in a former day, was much more confined and restricted.
In the wine country, in Touraine and on the coast, you will hear the "_black rot_" talked of, and in Normandy, at Havre, you will see a crowd of "_dockers_" discussing vehemently--as only Normans can--the latest "_lockout_."