Normandy stands to-day as it stood in the middle ages, with many memorials and reminiscences of its feudal pomp and glory, with here and there a monument to Rollon, William the Conqueror, or Richard the Lion-hearted.
As it was three centuries or more ago, teeming with many a monument, cathedral, abbey, fortress, and château, so Normandy is to-day, except for the ruin wrought by the bloody hand of revolution. In spirit Normandy is still mediæval, and here and there are evidences of the even more ancient Roman or Celtic remains.
History gives the facts, and the guide-books conventional information. The most that the present work attempts is to recount the results of more or less intimate acquaintance with the land and its people, now and again bringing to light certain matters not to be met with in a briefer sojourn.
One of the joys of France to-day, as indeed it ever has been, is travel by road. The rail has its advantages, but it also has its disadvantages, whereas the most luxurious traveller by road, even if he be snugly tucked away in a sixty-horse royal Mercédes, is nothing more than an itinerant vagabond, and France is the land above all others for the sport.
As an industry to be developed and fostered, France early recognized the automobile as a new world-force, and the powers that be were convinced that the way should be smoothed for those who would, with the poet Henley, sing the song of speed.
With their inheritance of magnificent roadways, this was not difficult; for the French and mine host--or his French counterpart, who is really a more up-to-date individual than he is usually given the credit of being--rose gallantly to the occasion as soon as they saw the return of that trade which had grown beautifully less since the passing of the _malle-poste_ and the _diligence_.
The paternalism of the French government is a wonderful thing. It not only stands sponsor for the preservation and restoration of historical monuments,--great churches, châteaux, and the like,--but takes a genial interest in automobilism as well.
Hills have been levelled and dangerous corners straightened, level crossings abolished or better guarded; and, where possible, the dread _caniveaux_--or water-gullies--which cross the roadway here and there have been filled up. More than all else, the execrable paved road, for which France has been noted, is fast being done away with. It is perhaps worth mentioning that the chief magistrate himself is not an automobilist; which places him in practically a unique position among the rulers of Europe.