In selecting the [O] designing paper for double cloth, such as cloakings, coatings, etc., made with a back-warp, and executed on any of the single section tie-ups, use the lines between the squares to indicate the back-warp and back-filling. The proportion of ends of face-warp to face-filling in one inch of the finished fabric indicates the kind of paper needed.
Example: If a fabric has the following texture:
Warp, 2 ends face, 1 end back, 90 ends per inch. Filling, 3 " 1 " 132 picks "
The kind of designing paper needed is found by dividing 90 by 3, and multiplying by 2, thus: 90 ÷ 3 × 2 = 60, number of ends of face-warp per inch, and 132 ÷ 4 × 3 = 99, number of picks filling per inch, giving a 60 × 99 paper, or its equivalent, 6 × 10.
Face cards for these fabrics must be stamped twice, first for the face weave, and afterward for the binder. If using a 12-row machine, use punches 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, and 11, for face; 3, 6, 9, and 12, for the back of the fabric.
Selection of Designing Paper for Two-ply Ingrain Carpets.
Always observe the proportion existing between the number of warp and filling-threads. For instance, take a carpet having 1072 ends warp (536 ground and 536 filling) per yard, with 30 picks per inch (1 pick ground and 1 pick filling, or 15 pair). Then, 1072 ÷ 36 = 29-28/36 ends of warp per inch. The proposition is as 29-28/36: 30; or, what is practically the same, 30: 30, showing that the paper must be equally divided, and 8 × 8 may be used, as is usually done.
Again, take a carpet having 832 ends warp (416 ground, 416 figure) per yard with 20 picks per inch (1 pick ground, 1 pick figure, or 10 pair). Then 832 ÷ 36 = 23-4/36, and the proportion is as 23-1/9: 20, or as 7-19/27: 6-2/3, practically 8: 7; and 8 × 7 paper may be used.
NOTE.--It will always be advantageous for the card stamping if the designing paper be selected so that the number of warp-ends in one square equals the number of griffe-bars used in the Jacquard machine.
Selection of the Proper Brush for the Different [O] Designing Papers.
The brush used by the designer must be clipped according to the size of the rectangles of the paper. It should cover the rectangle in warp direction at one sweep of the hand; hence each size of the squared paper requires a specially prepared brush for quick, good, and perfect work.