The process of turning hair is attended with some little trouble, and various tradesmen have different ways of doing it. Of course the hair can be worked better when it is turned, but, as cheapness is the order of the day, I suppose that where one piece of hair is “turned,” nineteen other pieces do not undergo such careful manipulation. In order to deal with this part of the business properly, let me briefly recapitulate.
In describing the formation of hair, and speaking of the cuticle, or outer sheath, I have said that it is of a horny description; that hairs are somewhat cylindrical in shape (excepting curly or wavy hair, which is rather flat); that the cortical structure of human hair is jagged like the teeth of a saw, and that this serrated appearance is produced through the outer layer, or sheath, being composed of flattened cells or scales, which overlap each other like the scales of fishes. This can be _seen_ by means of a good microscope, and _felt_ in passing hair quickly from point to root through the fingers. By reversing the hair and drawing it through the fingers from root to point, the difference can more readily be detected in consequence of its smoothness. The knowledge of this structural arrangement is important as it bears largely upon the “turning” operation.
The combings are to be picked out and “carded,” being at the same time held rather loosely in the hand. By so doing, the matted hair becomes disentangled, and is deposited in or upon the “card.” It is then to be drawn out, piece by piece, and laid aside. When the whole has been “carded” in this way, it can be loosely tied in the middle, washed, and dried. I will now assume that the cleaned hair is before you, and that it is to be “turned.” Place it in the brushes; draw off a convenient portion, taking care that the part held in the hand is clubbed, and proceed in either of the following ways:—Hold the piece of hair in the left hand, have a cup of warm water near, into which the fingers of the right hand are to be dipped as occasion requires. The hair is to be worked between the thumb and finger, and the peculiar formation of the hair gradually forces the roots upwards. These roots may be seen plainly with an ordinary magnifying glass; they can be easily discerned by those whose eyesight is good, and are to be discovered by the touch. They generally present a whitish appearance, and are bulbous in form. It should be borne in mind that I am speaking here of the roots in a business sense only, without any regard to the more minute scientific considerations. As the roots present themselves, the hairs to which they are attached are to be pulled out and “turned,” _i.e._, they are to be put at the bottom of the piece of hair in hand. As each portion is done, it is to be laid aside, until the whole is completed, the roots being at one end, the points at the other. To finish the turning process, the hair should then be drawn off and tied as previously described.