A Duke 120 } A Marquis 110 } An Earl 100 } A Viscount 90 } Garters. A Baron 80 } A Baronet 70 } A Knight-Batchelor 60 }
ABOUT the Reign of King _Henry_ VI. the Sovereigns Number of Garters did not much exceed those which the Founder allow’d to himself at the Institution; for the Surcoat and Hood of the said King consisted of 173; and the King of _Portugal_, _Anno_ 13 _Henry_ VI. 120 Garters. But this Drapery of their Robes became at length quite obsolete, perhaps when Cloth was altered to Velvet, and the plain Surcoat hath to this Day continued in Use.
WHILE these Surcoats remained of Cloth, they were lined with Bellies of pure Minever Fur, only the Sovereigns was purfled with Ermin; and of these, it seems, a like Proportion was at first stated to all the Knights-Companions, _viz._ 200 Bellies. Yet in the Reign of King _Richard_ II. some Difference began in the Allowance to the Knights-Companions, for a Baron, and all Degrees upward had 200 Bellies; but under a Baron 120 only. However, _Anno_ 1. _Henry_ V. the Barons were tantamount to the Knights-Batchelors, for all Degrees above a Baron were allow’d, a Fur of 200 Bellies. But the Barons and Knights-Batchelors Furs were only 120 Bellies.
AFTERWARDS, by the Precedent of the Garter, there was another Proportion limited, the Prince, a Duke, a Marquis, an Earl, had each of them Five Timber of pure Minever allowed to a Surcoat; but the Viscount, Baron, Baronet and Batchelor-Knights but Three Timber apiece. In time these Furs were disused, and the Surcoats came to be lined with white Sarcenet, to which, _temp. Eliz._ white Taffaty succeeded, and that still continues.
WHAT became of the old Surcoats, since the Knights-Companions had new ones every Year, the Black Book of the Order informs us, That on the Eve of the Feast of St. _George_, the Knights wore to Vespers, the Sovereigns Livery or Surcoats, used by them the preceding Year, which after that Night they threw off, (for the new Surcoats were worn on the Feast-Day); but the Ensigns and Ornaments of this Kind were disposed of to the Use of the Colledge.
THE Hood and Cap comes in the next Place to be spoken of, which Hood in King _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes, and the Black Book of the Order is called _Humerale_; but in the Rolls of the Great Wardrobe, _Capucium_. In the _French_ it is _Chaperon_, a Word used in the Statute, _Anno_ 1. _Richard_ II. _C._ 7. and also retained in the Old _English_ Copy of _Henry_ VIII’s Statutes made of his Reign, and annexed to this Treatise. They were anciently wore for Defence of the Head against the Inclemencies of Weather, but of later Times Caps and Hats have supplied their place. How they sat upon the Head, may be observed in the Portraitures of the first Founders; as also with some Variety of Fashion in succeeding Ages: Yet is not the Hood quite thrown by, since ’tis still kept reclining upon the Back, almost like a Pilgrim’s Hat.