CHAPTER PAGE I THE SOUTH AMERICAN METROPOLIS 3 II ON THE STREETS OF BUENOS AIRES 24 III FAR AND WIDE ON THE ARGENTINE PAMPAS 38 IV OVER THE ANDES TO CHILE 64 V CHILEAN LANDSCAPES 82 VI HEALTHY LITTLE URUGUAY 111 VII BUMPING UP TO RIO 138 VIII AT LARGE IN RIO DE JANEIRO 173 IX BRAZIL PAST AND PRESENT 193 X MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE CARIOCAS 215 XI STRANDED IN RIO 242 XII A SHOWMAN IN BRAZIL 270 XIII ADVENTURES OF AN ADVANCE AGENT 295 XIV WANDERING IN MINAS GERAES 315 XV NORTHWARD TO BAHIA 342 XVI EASTERNMOST AMERICA 372 XVII THIRSTY NORTH BRAZIL 399 XVIII TAKING EDISON TO THE AMAZON 430 XIX UP THE AMAZON TO BRITISH GUIANA 456 XX STRUGGLING DOWN TO GEORGETOWN 502 XXI ROAMING THE THREE GUIANAS 554 XXII THE TRACKLESS LLANOS OF VENEZUELA 610
Bush Negroes of Dutch Guiana _Frontispiece_
In Buenos Aires I became “office-boy” to the American consul general 32
The new Argentine capitol building in Buenos Aires 32
The government ferry to Choele Choel Island, in the Rio Negro of southern Argentine 33
My travels in Patagonia were by rail and in what the _Argentino_ calls a “soolky” 48
A typical “boliche” town of the Argentine pampa, and some of its inhabitants 49
A woman of Córdoba, _mate_ bowl in hand 64
Even a lady would not look unladylike in the _bombachas_ of southeastern South America 64
The highway over the Andes into Chile was filled with snow 65
A bit of the transandean highway in the wintry month of May 65
At last I came out high above the famous “Christ of the Andes” in a bleak and arid setting 80
The “Lake of the Inca” just over the crest in Chile 80
On the way down I passed many little dwellings tucked in among the boulders 81
The stream that had trickled from under the snows at the summit had grown to a considerable river, watering a fertile valley 81
The street cars of Chile are of two stories and have women conductors 96
Talcahuano, the second harbor of Chile, is only a bit less picturesque than Valparaiso 96
The central plaza of Concepción, third city of Chile 97
Valdivia, in far southern Chile, is one of the few South American cities built of wood, even the streets being paved with planks 97
Countrymen of southern Chile in May to September garb 112
A woman of the Araucanians, the aborigines of southern Chile 112