These interesting temples show, as they stand side by side, great freedom in the application of the rules of Doric style. For instance, the number of columns on the side of a hexastyle temple varies from thirteen to seventeen. The number of steps also varies from two to six, instead of the canonical three.
When we visited Segesta the next day and saw its temple, also unfinished, as it was when the city was stricken down by the Greek Agathocles, we felt little pity for this city which had stirred up so much mischief for its foe, Selinus, and for its friend, Athens. But perhaps, after all, this Elymian city's greatest crime was saying, "I must live." If Selinus refused to accept this proposition, Segesta called in Athens or Carthage, regardless of the woes that might in consequence come upon those who disputed her right to live.
In shooting down from Segesta to the northern shore, without further exploration of what may be called the country of Æneas, we got glimpses of Mount Eryx, the favorite haunt of Venus; and later in the day the train brought us to Palermo, "that wonderful cross-section of history." But as it was not rich in Greek history our tour in western Hellas was at an end.
June, lovely June, has been the bringer of two good things to me--Sicily and the Dalmatian coast; and now that the charm of the latter is fresh it seems almost to outshine the former.
When I came on board the Austrian Lloyd steamer Galatea at Corfu I had little idea of what awaited me. One reads of this "Norway of the South," this "Switzerland in the sea"; but how little these comparisons convey until the landscape has really been seen. My main purpose was rest from the heat of Greece, and a more or less careful study of the ruins of Spalato.
This Dalmatian line is adapted to one who wishes to travel lazily. The stops as far as Spalato are longer than the passages; the boat, however, starts in each case promptly according to the schedule. The only exception was at Corfu; when all was ready, and we were just about to hoist the anchor, a Greek boatman came up alongside with a barge loaded with casks and boxes. It was so characteristic of a Greek.
While we were moving along the coast of Albania until late in the afternoon, there was nothing new to look out for; and so there was time to get acquainted with the ship and the passengers, to get one's bearings. There were the rules for passengers printed in five parallel columns--English, French, German, Italian, and Greek--emphasizing the cosmopolitan constituency of the travelling public. In Europe, and especially in the Orient, it always pays to read regulations, particularly the English column, to see how foreigners wrestle with our language. Rule 3 said: "Every damage is to be made good by the person who _dit_ it." Rule 11: "It is prohibited to any passenger to _middle_ with the command and direction of the vessel." As I had always trusted to the captain to run his own ship, I felt safe on that point. Particular anxiety for the ladies ran through the rules. One rule was: "Gentlemen are not allowed to enter the cabins of the ladies," and as a final snapper at the end of the last rule was this sentence: "Passengers having a right to be treated like persons of education will no doubt conform themselves to the rules of good society by respecting their fellow-travellers and paying a due regard to the fair sex." As we had no ladies at all on board until the journey was about half finished it began to seem as if they had been frightened away.