Mr. _A----_, the Dean, was with us nearly all the time, and was dressed in Japanese ceremonial robes and a bowler hat. When he took off the bowler, one saw that he had a fine forehead, and that his face was altogether one of considerable beauty. His was undeniably a face with ideals. Mr. _N----_, the President, was rather a similar type of man, but perhaps less artistically fine. Both were very cordial, and we had an interesting talk, for they were all-round developed men, and one could talk to them as to an Englishman--not like so many of these Japanese scientists, who are (or try to be) that and nothing more.
The _M----s_ then took me back to lunch, which was in European style; the food was excellent, but with all their wealth, they had no dainty silver on the table, whose large extent looked rather drear.
After lunch they showed me the garden, taking me to the Japanese part, which was splendid, hilly with green groves and streams, and a waterfall. I saw also their Japanese rooms, most beautiful, except that they had a blue plush carpet put over the mats; there was, however, nothing else in them but the proper appointments--and I delighted in their quiet harmonies.
I got back to the laboratory in time to get in an afternoon’s work.
=May 30.=--Fossils all morning--and preparing microscope, etc. for my Monday’s expedition, when I am going after cycads. Went along to tea with Professor _F----_, who is a little better now, and from whom I needed some information about the place I was going to.
=June 1.=--The household was up at 5 this morning, and I got off to the station a good deal too early for the train, which is a fault on the right side. After seven hours along the renowned old Tokkaido, where to-day a railway runs, I landed at Yejiri, and went in a _kuruma_ about a couple of miles farther to a very noted cycad temple. I deposited my microscope and baggage on the temple steps, which I converted into a temporary laboratory, and scratched myself sadly on the cycas leaves while examining the coming fruits. The cycads are really wonderful--so tall, and curved and branched innumerably.
After pottering around for a while, I broached the subject of stopping all night at the temple, and soon got my way. The priest is extremely old and frail, and looks stupid, but I don’t think he is; there is also an old woman, whom I presume is his wife, who will do what little cooking I shall get.