There are two different operations belonging to the surface of this globe which we are now to consider, and by which we shall be enabled to form some computation of what had been in space and time, from that which now appears. Moving water is the means employed in both those operations; but, in the one case, it is the water of the sea; in the other again, it is the water of the land. The effect of the one operation is the wasting of the coast, and the diminution of that basis on which our land and soil depends; of the other, again, it is the degradation of our mountains, and the wasting of our soil. In the course of this last operation, there is also occasionally land formed in the sea, in addition to our coast.
With regard to the wearing of the coast by the agitation of the waves, this is an operation of which some understanding is to be formed from the surest of all records, from a careful examination of our shores which are in this decaying state, and by observing what has been removed from those portions which we find remaining. Few people have either the skill or the opportunity of thus judging of the state of our earth from that which actually appears; but there is no person, who studies this science of geology, that may not satisfy himself with regard to the truth of this theory, by looking into our maps and charts, and making proper allowances for causes which cannot appear in the maps, but which may be understood by a person of knowledge making observations on the spot. In order to assist this study, the following observations may be made.
It is a general observation among mariners, that a high coast and rocky shore have deep water; whereas a low coast, and sandy shore, are as naturally attended with shallow water. The explanation of this fact will appear by considering, that a steep rocky coast is occasioned by the sea having worn away the land; and, when that is the case, we are not to expect sand should be accumulated upon that shore, so as to make the sea shallow. Look round all the coasts of Great Britain and Ireland that are exposed to the wide ocean, as likewise those of France and Norway, deep water, and a worn coast, are universally to be acknowledged. If again the coast is shallow, this is a proof that the land affords more materials than the sea can carry away; consequently, instead of being impaired, the coast may here increase and be protruded from the land. Such is the case in many places along the coast of North America, where several reasons concur in accumulating sand upon that coast; for, not only is the shore plentifully provided with sand from the rivers of that continent, but also the sand of the Mexican Gulf would appear to be carried along this coast with the stream which flows here towards the north, and which has thus contributed to form the banks of Newfoundland.