For that is what it is--just an illusion--the most superb fantasy in the whole world. We left anchorage soon after sunrise and moved over abreast of Galata a little below the bridge that crosses the Golden Horn and connects this part of Constantinople with Stamboul. We are lying now full length against the street, abreast of it, where all day long a soiled, disordered life goes on. It is a perpetual show, but hardly a pleasing one. It is besmirched and raucous; it is wretched.
Hawkers, guides, beggars, porters weave in and out and mingle vociferously. To leave the ship is to be assailed on every side. Across the street is a row of coffee-houses where unholy music and singing keep up most of the time. Also, there are dogs, scores of them--a wolfish breed--and they are seldom silent. This is the reverse of the picture. As the outside is fairyland, so this is inferno.
We battled our way to our carriages and drove across the bridge to Stamboul. Perhaps it would be better there. But that was a mistake--it was worse. We entered some narrow, thronging streets--a sort of general market, I should say--that fairly reeked with offal. We saw presently that nearly everybody wore rubbers, or stilted shoes--wooden sandal things, with two or three inches of heel and sole--and we understood why; it was to lift them out of the filth. I have had dreams where, whichever way I turned, lay ordure and corruption, with no way out on any side. Such dreams were hardly worse than this. A passenger of our party--a lady--said afterwards:
"When we drove through those streets I felt as if I had died and gone to hell."
Yet on the whole, I think hell would be cleaner. I am sure it would not smell so. I have no special preference for brimstone, but I would have welcomed it as we drove through those Constantinople streets.
I know what they smell like; I can describe it exactly: they smell like a garbage-can. Not the average garbage-can--fairly fresh and leading the busy life--but an old, opulent, tired garbage-can--one that has been filled up and overlooked, in August. Now and then at home a can like that gets into the garbage-wagon, and when that wagon comes along the street on a still summer morning it arrests attention. I have seen strong men turn pale and lovely women totter when that can went by.