CHAP XIII--SYRA, THE MARBLE ISLAND.--LIFE IN AN ATHENIAN HOTEL.
In sight of Syra--Active Trade in one Fish--A town all Built of Marble--The “Doubter” Expresses his Sentiments--Gustave’s Adventure--Walking on One’s Ear--“A little more beer, boy!”--The Pirates’ Retreat--Extraordinary Politeness in a Cafe--A lesson for American Barkeepers--In the Stamboul’s Cabin--“Blowing great guns”--A Tale of a Tub--Honey and Marble--Standing in the City of Demosthenes--The Battle of the Rival Hotels--Profanity in an Unknown Tongue--Out-generaling Inn-keepers--Tricks on Travellers--Useful Knowledge for Foreign Travel,..........187
CHAP XIV--ATHENS, ANCIENT AND MODERN.--SIGHTS AND SCENES IN THE GRECIAN CAPITAL.
First Impressions of Athens--Opinion of the “Doubter”--“Not Worth Damming”--The Oldest Inhabitant of Athens--Celebrated Ruins--Reminiscences of Greek Grammar--A “Big Injun” on Greek--Drinking Beer on Sacred Soil--A Toper-graphical Survey--The Acropolis--What Is It?--The Temple of Jupiter Olympus--Seven Hundred Years in Building--A Young Englishman in a Scrape--Sunset from the Acropolis--Byron’s Glorious Lines--The Parthenon and its Surroundings--Foundations of the Ancient Citadel--Excavations of Antiquarians--Greek Art--An Important Discovery--The Line of Beauty,..........197
CHAP XV--ROUND ABOUT ATHENS.--THE COUNTRY OF THE BRIGANDS.
Mars’ Hill, the Place where St. Paul Preached on the Unknown God--The Prison of Socrates--The Country of the Brigands--Escorted by Greek Soldiers--Captures by the Brigands--How they Treat Captives--Extorting Ransoms--Buying Coins and Relics--Swindling Travellers--Among the Ruins--Strange Contrasts--“Chaffing” the Guide--Position of the Persian and Grecian Hosts--Xerxes’ Throne--“The King Sate on the Rocky Brow”--Making the Ascent by Proxy--“I No Go ze Mountain”--The Battle of Marathon--A Survivor of the Battle--How the Victory was Won,..........213
CHAP XVI--THE GLORY OF ATHENS.--ITS SIGHTS, SCENES, RUINS, AND RELICS.
The Opera at Athens--Handsome Greeks--The King and Queen--A Lovely Trio--Losing a Heart--Byron’s “Maid of Athens”--How She Looked--Her House and History--The Acropolis by Moonlight--Waking the Guard--A Sham Permit--“Backsheesh”--The Parthenon by Night--Greek Gypsies--Among the Curiosity Shops--Dr. Schliemann and his Trojan Discoveries--The Gold and Silver Vases of King Priam--Where they were Found--Relics of the Sack of Troy--Curious Workmanship--Some Account of the Excavations--We Leave Athens--A Queer Steamer--“Pay or Go to Prison”--End of Our Steamship Adventure,..........225