We here enjoyed ourselves under the comforts of a good inn and attentive landlady.
10th. At Johnson's tavern, foot of Chestnut Ridge. We have now passed the Allegany mountains, and can affirm that at this time of the year there is little except the stony road very formidable to encounter: the line of it is laid with judgment, and with steady horses and a stout carriage may well be passed over by those who fear not a shaking; that, indeed, they may rely upon. The settlers on the eastern side of the mountains take great pains to deter the traveller from attempting the pass, and even after having surmounted the Cove mountain, Scrubridge, &c., I was told of the great difficulties of Laurel Hill; the fact is, it proved the easiest of the whole; nothing annoyed us but the sun, it being about mid-day when we began the ascent.
Much has been said of the expense of travelling in this country, I give therefore a night's bill at one of the better houses, viz.
Cents. { 46} 5 Suppers $1 : 87-1/2 Lodging 0 : 37-1/2 Hay for 4 horses 1 : 0 8 Gallons (1 Bushel) of Oats 1 : 0 £. _s._ _d._ --------- 4 : 25 0 : 19 : 1-1/2
A night's bill at a good English inn for the same would be double the amount.
A tavern-keeper brought in some wine glasses stinking of whiskey, to which a cloth seemed never to have been applied; out of a pitcher of water he poured some into a glass, just shook it, and then throwing the water into the waiter upon which the wine stood, walked away satisfied with this proof of his cleanliness: and a female the other evening, in order to brush away the flies while we were at supper, flourished over our heads her dirty pocket handkerchief, in the absence of the brush of feathers fixed upon a long stick, which is generally waved over the dishes during the repast. The practice of going barefoot is here very general among working people, particularly the females; it is by no means an uncommon sight { 47} in New York and Philadelphia, during the summer season, even in good houses; a custom this, probably, at least as cleanly as that of wearing close shoes and stockings.
12th. At Greensburgh, thirty miles east from Pittsburgh. The country we have lately passed is beautifully undulated, land of good quality interspersed with woodland, worth near from twenty to twenty-five dollars per acre; water plentiful and good.