There was not quite so good an understanding between the Pope's _Legate_ and the English residing here, as could be wished; some untoward circumstance had happened, and there seemed to be faults on both sides; it was carried, I think, to such a length, that when the English met him, they did not pull off their hats; but as it happened before I came, and as in our walks and rides we often met him airing in his coach, we paid that respect which is everywhere due to a first magistrate, and he took great pains to return it most graciously; his livery, guards, &c. make a very splendid appearance: he holds a court, and is levee'd every Sunday, though not liked by the French. At the church of St. _Didier_, in a little chapel, of mean workmanship, is the tomb of the celebrated _Laura_, whose name _Petrarch_ has rendered immortal; the general opinion is, that she died a virgin; but it appears by her tomb, that she was the wife of _Hugues de Sade_, and that she had many children. About two hundred years after her death, some curious people got permission to open her tomb, in which they found a little box, containing some verses written by _Petrarch_, and a medallion of lead, on one side of which was a Lady's head and on the reverse, the four following letters, M.L.M.E.
_Francis_ the First, passing thro' _Avignon_, visited this tomb, and left upon it the following epitaph, of his own composition:
"En petit lien compris vous pouvez voir Ce qui comprend beaucoup par renommèe Plume, labour le langue & le devoir Furent vaincus par l'aimant de l'aimée O gentille ame, etant tant estimée Qui le pourra louer quen se laissant? Car la parole est toujours reprimée Quand le sujet surmonte le disant."
This town is crowded with convents and churches. The convent of the _Celestines_, founded by _Charles_ the VIth, is richly endowed, and has noble gardens: there are not above fourteen or fifteen members, and their revenue is near two thousand pounds sterling a year. In their church is a very superb monument of Pope _Clement_ the VIIth, who died here in the year 1394, as a long Latin inscription upon it announces. They shew in this house a picture, painted by King _Renee_; it represents the frightful remains of his beloved mistress, whose body he took out of the grave, and painted it in the state he then found it, i.e. with the worms crawling about it: it is a hideous figure, and hideously painted; the stone coffin stands on a line with the figure, but is above a foot too short for the body; and on the other side is a long scrole of verses, written in Gothic characters, which begin thus: