Otaru Ankake Yakisoba is a variety of "Ankake Yakisoba" (stir-fried noodles with a starchy sauce) sold at many restaurants in Otaru, Hokkaido. The dish became prevalent within Otaru from the third decade of the Showa Period (1955–1964) and by the Heisei Period (1989–) was beloved by the people of Otaru. From the 2010s, in order to promote Otaru and combat the city's population decrease, a citizen's group made efforts to popularize the dish and it became known as a local delicacy.
History
There are various theories about the origin of Otaru Ankake Yakisoba. One prominent theory is that it originated as 'Gomoku Ankake Yakisoba' (ankake yakisoba with a combination of meat, fish and vegetables) made by a Chinese restaurant called 'Baigetsu' that relocated to Inaho, Otaru in 1957 (Showa 32). At that time, the restaurant was comparatively accessible to tourists and gained popularity with the increasing numbers of backpackers. Additionally, amongst Otaru locals, it became commonplace to eat ankake yakisoba at the restaurant after a days shopping in the town centre. The second-generation owner of 'Baigetsu', Kondō Yūji, saw the restaurant into the height of its prosperity, was proactive in sharing the recipe with other local Chefs and is seen as playing a vital part in the popularisation of ankake yakisoba in Otaru.
However, according to later research, other Chinese restaurants in Otaru, namely 'Restaurant Roll' and 'Rairaiken' were already serving ankake yakisoba in 1950 (Showa 25). When taking into consideration that ankake yakisoba was being made as a staff meal in Chinese restaurants all across Japan, it can be claimed that the origins of Otaru Ankake Yakisoba can be traced back further than 'Baigetsu'. There is another theory that ankake yakisoba was brought to Otaru in the prewar period by chefs from Tokyo and Kyoto employed at local Hotels and ryōtei and became popular with workers at the port.
Whichever theory is true, it is thought that ankake yakisoba became widely popularised in Otaru in the third decade of the Showa Period (1955–1964), became a staple on restaurant menus due to it being filling and warming in the winter months and was considered a fashionable lunch option.
Characteristics
According to the citizens' group discussed below, the 'Otaru Ankake Yakisoba PR Committee', 'Otaru Ankake Yakisoba' is a general term referring to ankake yakisoba with a variety of vegetables and seafood, served in restaurants in and around Otaru. Another group, the 'Otaru Ankake Yakisoba Guard', certifies the ankake yakisoba of local restaurants.
Although the restaurants in Otaru do not all have a common recipe, fried Noodles and a large amount of sauce are common characteristics. However, even these are not rules of Otaru Ankake Yakisoba, and each restaurant uses different recipes and ways of serving the dish, resulting in a wide range of flavours and variations on the dish. Otaru Ankake Yakisoba has a history of over 60 years, and it is thought that each restaurant plays a part in this history and that there as many takes on the dish as there are restaurants. Also, the aforementioned citizen's group made the choice to not create a strict definition or recipe for Otaru Ankake Yakisoba, instead deciding to respect each restaurant's originality。
Otaru Ankake Yakisoba is not just served at Chinese restaurants, but also such places as ramen restaurants, diners, Cafeterias, Western-style restaurants, cafes, Izakaya, Hotels, bathhouses, mahjong parlours, Ski resorts and golf pavilions. The fact that it is a popular item on the menu at each restaurant could also be considered a characteristic of the dish. The number of restaurants serving the dish is said to be close to 100 It is also said that in Otaru 'yakisoba' more often refers to ankake yakisoba than to regular yakisoba.
As Otaru is a port town with an abundance of fresh seafood, a dish including delicious seafood is considered a very fitting speciality. However, the dish has been criticised as not being representative of Otaru as it contains a comparatively small proportion of local ingredients. There is also a view that the history of the dish is rooted in the people of Otaru, is part of the local cuisine and culture that has been preserved by the people for over 60 years, and is a trump card in the fight against Otaru's population decrease. In 2017 (Heisei 29) the opinion has been expressed that Otaru Ankake Yakisoba is a speciality in the same way as sushi.