Gogo Graham is a transgender woman who designs clothing specifically catered to trans women. Originally from Texas, she now is based in Brooklyn, NY, and has garnered national attention by working alongside prominent industry moguls such as Women’s History Museum and RuPaul. She has since branched out to create her own collections and has had two collections shown at New York Fashion Week. Graham's work ethos has attracted a following of trans women who have formed a community of support for one another. She explains of her brand, "the evolution of my identity as a trans woman is reflected in the evolution of the collection; sometimes rigid, sometimes fluid, sometimes stagnant, sometimes dynamic." In addition to creating apparel accommodating the specific needs of trans women, Graham is also a committed advocate for the socio-political issues transgender women face in society today.
Personal life
Born in 1991, Gogo Graham was raised in Pearland, Texas, and went on to study pre-med at the University of Texas at Austin. One credit short of graduation, she transferred to a degree in textiles and apparel, which sparked the beginning of her career in design. Upon graduation, Graham moved to New York City to center herself within the hub of the fashion world. Her move into fashion was motivated by the lack of inclusivity she experienced herself as a trans woman when trying to find clothing that suited her body shape. She explains how trans women "don't have options in fashion," because of the clothing that is made either for traditionally male or female bodies.
Career
Upon arriving in New York, Graham began working for costume designer Zaldy, whom she collaborated with on designs for a J-Pop band, and famous drag queen RuPaul. She then left to work at a factory in Midtown which gave her more creative freedom in constructing avant-garde clothing, as opposed to ready-to-wear style. At the same time, she "started making designs for photography projects with her friend and collaborator Serena Jara." Stephanie Eckardt states "though she started out making more traditional womenswear, Graham refocused when she came out as trans herself." Once she had enough industry experience, Graham decided to start designing her own collections that addressed the different body types and stylistic needs of trans women. Her self-made fashion brand recycles materials and repurposes found items to construct a collective line. Graham's production process heavily involves the women for whom the clothing is being made; she consults with them on which features they want accentuated and then works to deliver a piece that best fits these criteria. She explains "some people care more than others about how they need to be presented in shows and I take that into account when putting everything together." Graham illuminates the importance of self-representation by marginalized groups in the media, explaining how “being portrayed by cis people is inherently exploitative no matter which way you spin it." In addition to fashion design, Graham is also a sculptor, painter, and DJ, which she incorporates into her shows by providing the soundtracks and assisting with hair and makeup backstage.
Graham has now presented two collections at NYFW, and has completed five full-length collections. She has since evolved the purpose of her work; she now advocates for financial support from the fashion industry to empower the trans women involved and to ensure the longevity of the movement. Graham says, "having fashion shows gives me an opportunity to pay models," which she believes provides personal agency within the industry. Mars Hobrecker and Leah James explain how transgender models "have become a hot topic in recent years thanks to Bruce Weber's all-trans campaign for Barneys and diverse runways at Eckhaus Latta, Chromat, and Hood by Air." Graham believes financial compensation for the trans models involved in campaigns such as these will hinder mainstream fashion lines from exploiting the community in order to gain recognition and popularity. Still continuing to produce only one-of-a-kind pieces, Graham has not enabled factory production or begun work on ready-made lines.