"The best time of the year for this journey is in spring, between 'the early and the latter rain' which the Bible mentions. The country is then in its best condition, the climate is delightful, and the chance of fine weather far better than now. But as we cannot suit the season to ourselves we will run the risk; with stout hearts and plenty of water-proof clothing we ought to go through without difficulty."[8]
[8] The author begs to inform the reader that the incident of the storm between Jericho and Jerusalem was his own experience in a visit to the Holy Land. He did not make the overland journey between Jerusalem and Damascus, and consequently the description of the route followed by Frank and Fred is not given from personal observation.
The afternoon was devoted to making a few purchases of articles likely to be needed on the journey, the completion of letters, and a few sights that had not been made during the first visit to the city. Doctor Bronson engaged a trusty man, who was recommended by the consul, to go to Jaffa and take the baggage of the party to Beyroot, where he would deliver it to the proprietor of the hotel to await their arrival. This was thought to be safer than ordering it sent forward as ordinary freight, and trusting to the agents of the steamer to deliver it. Steamship agents in the Levant are not worthy of the fullest confidence, as the writer of this book can bear witness. Travellers are advised to look carefully after their own affairs, and be wary of the oleaginous tongues of those from whom they purchase tickets.
As soon as the arrangements had been completed Ali disappeared from the hotel, and was not again seen till evening. He was busy with his preparations for the journey, as it was necessary for him to hire additional horses, and secure a stock of provisions sufficient to carry them through to Damascus with what he could purchase on the route. The pack-train, with the tents and provisions, was sent away in advance. The party had a long ride before it for the next day, and before nine o'clock everybody was in bed.
[Illustration: SCENE ON THE OVERLAND ROUTE FROM JERUSALEM.]
They were off by daybreak, leaving the city by the Damascus Gate, which we have already seen in their company. They passed near the tombs of the kings, and descended into the Valley of the Brook Kedron, which is here much smaller than where they crossed it at Mar Saba. They met a few natives on their way to the city, with trains of donkeys laden with vegetables and grain for sale in the markets of Jerusalem, and in one place they were crowded against a rough wall by a line of camels that kept the road to themselves in the manner for which those animals are famous. The road, though used for centuries, is impassable for wheeled vehicles, and the beasts of burden that traverse it follow in the footsteps of those who preceded them ages and ages ago.