In marking out work always measure from a fixed centre, for if you add one measurement to another any slight inaccuracy gets increased with each fresh measurement, and you might finally get the different portions out of place.
The slots are each an inch and a quarter wide by two inches deep, leaving one inch of iron at top as shown. The ornamental spaces can then be cut out, which lightens it considerably without weakening it much.
The frames, after being smoothed up, can be fastened to the bed-plate in the manner described before by angle-irons or knees riveted on. Two end-pieces must also be prepared an inch deep, and the ends hammered square at right angles, and then riveted to the bed-plate and side-frames, as shown by the rivets in Fig. 20.
Then drill three holes in them about an inch and a half from either end, and one in centre by which to bolt on the buffer-beams by means of a couple of screws put in from the back.
The buffer-beams should be mahogany, one inch wide, two inches deep, and ten inches long, squared nicely and sand-papered. A hook can then be made (Fig. 23), and, a hole being drilled in the centre of beam, you can pass the hook-stem through and into central hole of framework, and screw up tightly with nut at back, which will hold all firmly in place.
The buffers for this model must be made properly with springs to take the pressure, should you let it run into anything.
Turn out a wooden mould in the lathe and get four castings in brass made from it. Fig. 24 is an ordinary kind of buffer in general use, and, being in section, shows you the working arrangement of the spring, A is cast with a square base-plate two inches square, as in front view B, and is secured to buffer-beam by four flat-headed screws. The piece C must be turned true, and just the size to slide in and out A easily. Each part must be finished up in the lathe. A should be about an inch and a half long.
Drill a hole in beam to allow the head of pin to work in freely, and another hole in base-plate of buffer the size of pin, whose head prevents the spring forcing C entirely away from A.
The spring should be made of thick steel wire; the buffers can then be screwed on as just mentioned. The wheel-guard, or line-clearer P (Fig. 20), can next be cut out to shape and bolted on to frame, and should just clear the line by a quarter of an inch.