After the thin points are properly scarfed, lay the whole splice back on the splicing board just as it will be when it is glued, and do any fitting that may be necessary. Be very careful to get it thin enough, or it will make a hammering noise when going over the pulleys. When scarfing down the thin points with the scrapers, be sure that they are very sharp; if not, they will tear the point off when it gets down to an edge; also give the blade a drawing motion in order to facilitate cutting. It may seem to the novice that to use a piece of glass to scarf on, when one is using a tool with a razor edge, is a trifle inconsistent, but it is not so in the least; if the blade is held well back at the top and a considerable pressure applied to it, there will be no danger in the edge actually touching the glass; the edge is turned past a right-angular position, or hooked, and the heel is all that touches the glass. A good piece of plate glass about 12 × 18 inches is large enough for any width of belt, although a piece much smaller will do all right. Do not attempt to do any scarfing on the board 76d, for if you do it will be so full of holes that have been gouged by the scraper that it will be ruined for any purpose.
This board must be kept smooth in order to be able to do a good job of rubbing down when gluing. Never hammer a glue joint in order to set it; it is just that much unnecessary work and does absolutely no good; simply get a smooth block of wood 2 × 6 × 8 inches and rub hard and fast as soon as the glue is applied. Do not try to glue more than 6 inches in length at one time. Use a heavy brush--a high-priced paint brush is the best; the regular glue brush is about the only thing in existence that will not put on any glue at all--about a 3-inch brush is the thing; have the glue just as hot as it is possible to get it. Keep the brush in the pot all the time the glue is heating; also have a strong stick made somewhat like a three-cornered file, only larger, in the glue--this last is used to scrape off the brush all the glue that it is possible to get off without allowing the glue to get too cold. When you take the brush out of the pot, work fast; get all the glue possible off the brush and get the rest on the belt at once. Make two or three fast strokes across the belt and close down the splice and rub for dear life. After the first brushful has been applied (and rubbed for about two minutes), have an assistant raise the point up until you can see the glue breaking all across the whole width of the belt. Then have a second brush ready and repeat the former process, with the exception that you need not apply the glue to both sides of the leather as in the first case; for if you will keep the brush down in the fork between the two laps you will give both sides a coat, and in addition to the time saved by using this method you will get the joint closed while the glue is hot. As fast as you go across the belt with the brush, have the assistant roll the belt together after you; when you have used all the glue out of the brush, the joint is closed and ready to rub. You will keep the glue much hotter by immediately closing the splice after the brush, and there is nothing else so important as using hot glue; as soon as it commences to get shiny on the surface the thing is all off and it will not hold anything.
