"Jerusalem has suffered more from wars than any other city in the world, or, at all events, more than any city we have seen. It has been captured no less than seventeen times, if we may believe the historians, and some of them say that on several occasions the inhabitants have been slaughtered, the buildings destroyed, and the ground sown with salt. The question that comes up to us is, 'Where did they get the salt for that purpose?' Most of these terrible events in the history of Jerusalem occurred hundreds, and some of them thousands, of years ago. The traces of the old walls of Jerusalem are visible in many places, and any visitor can easily satisfy himself that the city was once much larger than it is at present.
"As soon as we had brushed up a little after our ride from Ramleh we went out to see the city and take a stroll through the streets of this interesting place.
"Near the front of the hotel is the Tower of David on Mount Zion, along with several other buildings. There is a good deal of dispute as to the antiquity of the tower, and whether it is really the one built by King David or not. The general belief is that the foundations are the same, while the superstructure is more modern. The Church of Mount Zion was founded during the fourth century, but has been rebuilt two or three times, its present form having been given to it four or five hundred years ago. Near the church is a monastery, and its inmates call themselves the Guardians of Mount Zion. A hospital is attached to the monastery, and there is a lodging-house where poor pilgrims are received and cared for during their stay in Jerusalem.
"We went down the Street of David, which passes in front of the Mediterranean Hotel, and leads from the Jaffa Gate to Mount Moriah. We told the guide that we wanted to see the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. When we had gone a short distance on the Street of David we turned to the left into Christ Street, and in a few minutes were in front of the church that is revered as the burial place of our Saviour.
"There is an open space in front like a little square surrounded by buildings. We were reminded of the money-changers in the Temple as we approached the church. The space in front of it was filled with peddlers and beggars, principally the former, and there was hardly a moment when we were free from their importunities. The goods offered for sale were photographs, and curiosities from various parts of the Holy Land, together with rosaries, charms, and similar trifles made from olive-wood, the seeds of the olive-tree, or mother-of-pearl. To judge by the numbers of these itinerent merchants they must do a good business among the visitors to this sacred spot.