[Illustration: VIEW OF PHILÆ FROM THE HEAD OF THE CATARACT.]
The approach to Philæ was the occasion of many expressions of admiration, as the scenery was different from any on which their eyes had yet rested. The river is set in an irregular basin of desert hills, and their barren sides contrast, in a very marked degree, with the waving palms on the famous isle. The rocks of the cataract serve to render the picture still more fantastic, and as the whole scene bursts suddenly into view, it gives an impression to be long remembered. Remarkable as the view is from the bank of the Nile, it is still unequal to that from the ruins of the temple on the island itself.
[Illustration: THE BANK OF THE RIVER BELOW PHILÆ.]
While waiting for the boat to carry them over to Philæ, Frank and Fred amused themselves with the antics of the natives in the water. They had observed several short logs on the bank as they arrived, and wondered what they were for. As soon as they had dismounted the Doctor explained the uses of these pieces of wood.
"They are the ferry-boats of the natives," said he, "and are the common property of the inhabitants."
Frank asked what he meant by ferry-boats, and how it was possible to use a short log for crossing a river.
"Wait a moment and you'll see," replied the Doctor. "There's a boy making ready to launch one."
A Nubian urchin of ten or twelve years removed his very scanty clothing and made it into a bundle, which he placed on the top of his head; then he rolled one of the logs--a stick six feet long and ten inches in diameter--into the river and sprung in after it. Using the log as a float to support himself, he paddled away, and was soon on the island.
Other boys and men followed his example; but, instead of swimming to the island, they remained around the landing-place till the boat started, and then they accompanied it. The Doctor told the youths that when a native wishes to cross he makes a bundle of his clothing to tie on his head, and then swims over, leaving the log on the bank for his own or some other person's return. He takes the first log that comes in his way, and everybody does likewise. "You see," he continued, "how the logs serve as public ferry-boats."