Before leaving England, Borrow paid into his mother’s account at her bank the sum of seventeen pounds, an amount that she had advanced to him either during his unproductive years, or on account of his expenses in connection with the expedition to St Petersburg.
ON 19th/31st July 1833 Borrow set out on a journey that was to some extent to realise his ambitions. He was to be trusted and encouraged and, what was most important of all, praised for what he accomplished; for Borrow’s was a nature that responded best to the praise and entire confidence of those for whom he worked.
Travelling second class for reasons of economy, he landed at Hamburg at seven in the morning of the fourth day, after having experienced “a disagreeable passage of three days, in which I suffered much from sea-sickness.” { 107a} Exhausted by these days of suffering and want of sleep, the heat of the sun brought on “a transient fit of delirium,” { 107b} in other words, an attack of the “Horrors.” Two fellow-passengers (Jews), with whom he had become acquainted, conveyed him to a comfortable hotel, where he was visited by a physician, who administered forty drops of laudanum, caused his head to be swathed in wet towels, ordered him to bed, and charged a fee of seven shillings. The result was that by the evening he had quite recovered.
One of Borrow’s first duties was to write a lengthy letter to Mr Jowett, telling him of his movements, describing the city, the service at a church he attended, the lax morality of the Hamburgers in permitting rope-dancers in the park, and the opening of dancing-saloons, “most infamous places,” on the Lord’s day. “England, with all her faults,” he proceeds, “has still some regard to decency, and will not tolerate such a shameless display of vice on so sacred a season, when a decent cheerfulness is the freest form in which the mind or countenance ought to invest themselves.” In conclusion, he announced his intention of leaving for Lübeck on the sixth, { 108a} and he would be on the Baltic two days later en route for St Petersburg. “My next letter, provided it pleases the Almighty to vouchsafe me a happy arrival, will be from the Russian capital.” By “a fervent request that you will not forget me in your prayers,” he demonstrated that Mr Jowett’s hint had not been forgotten.