All Italy was covered with the country residences of the patricians. They were found in numbers on the coast of Campania, the Sabine hills and the lakes of the North.
The most esteemed members of the household staff were the coqui (cooks) and the pistores (fancy bakers). They often amassed large fortunes from their salaries and the many presents they received. All the other servants (who were usually slaves) were under the jurisdiction of a headman, an _atriensis_.
The first meal (_ientaculum_) was light, consisting ordinarily of bread and wine with honey, dates, olives or cheese. At the prandium (their _déjeuner à la fourchette_, which took the place of their noon dinner of former days), meats, vegetables, fruits, bread and wine were provided. After the second meal, the meridiato (or in modern language, the siesta) was enjoyed, as it is in the Italy of this century--although, unlike the sleepy town we know, business Rome then never slept.
After the short midday rest came games and exercises. The youth betook themselves to Campus Martius. The older members of the family made use of the sphaeristerium, a private gymnasium and ball room, which was found in every house. With it were connected the private baths.
The cena, the principal meal, commenced at 3, 4 or 5 o'clock in the afternoon. Seldom less than four hours were spent at table. Pliny, the elder, who was considered a very abstemious man, sat down to his meal at 4 o'clock, and remained there "until it began to grow dark in summer and soon after night in winter," at least three hours. The amount of food consumed would be incredible were it not for the explanation recorded by Seneca, "Edunt ut vomant; vomant ut edunt."
The dinner menu given below was of a very ordinary affair:
Sorrel Lettuce Pickled Cabbage and Gherkins Radishes, Mushrooms, etc. Oysters Sardines Eggs
Conger Eels Oysters Two kinds of Mussels Thrushes on Asparagus Fat Fowls Ragout of Oysters and other Shellfish with black and white Maroons.
Shellfish and other Marine Products Beccaficos Haunches of Venison Wild Boar Pastry of Beccaficos and other Birds.
Sow's Udder Boar's Head Fricassee of Fish Fricassee of Sow's Udders Various kinds of ducks Roast Fowl Hares Sausages Roast Pig Peacocks