The British Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) is the governing body for climbing competitions and the representative body for mountaineering in the British Army. It is a member of the British Mountaineering Council and is the largest climbing club in the United Kingdom.
History, Organisation and Status
The AMA was formed on 24 May 1957. It has charitable status and its constitution states that it exists 'To promote military efficiency by encouraging mountaineering in the Army'. Membership is open to serving members of the British Army and the Army Reserve. Since its inception the AMA has been involved in delivering and supporting mountaineering activity for its members. The association is currently engaged in two major areas of activity which are: mountaineering and climbing competitions each of which is governed separately.
The business of the AMA is managed by an executive committee who are elected annually. Its current president is Major General David Southall
Mountaineering
The AMA organises mountaineering training and expeditions for its members and encourages them to organise their own expeditions. It makes grants from the AMA 'Memorial Fund' to help support individuals wishing to take part in significant mountaineering expeditions. Since its inception the AMA has organised or provided significant support to a number of major expedition to the Greater Ranges including: 1959 – Malubiting East (First Ascent) 1960 – Annapurna II (First Ascent) (Joint Service) 1962 – Khunyang Chhish (also known as Khinyang Chhish) 1967 - West Greenland - Kangerlussuatsiaq Fjord 1968 - East Greenland - Kristians Glacier 1969 – Tirich Mir 1969 - North Greenland - Peary Land (Joint Service)(Army led) 1970 – Annapurna 1971 - AMA West Greenland (Evighedsfjord). 1972 – Axel Heiberg Island 1972 - Patagonia - Northern Patagonian Ice Field (Chile) - (Joint Services)(Army led) 1973 - Himachal Pradesh Expedition 1974 – Lamjung Himal 1975 – Nuptse (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition) 1976 – Mount Everest – South Col (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition) 1978 - East Greenland - Scoresby Sound area. 1980 – Api 1982 - Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29) 1985 – Kirat Chuli (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition) 1986 - Alpamayo 1987 – Shishapangma (Xixabangma) (Joint AMA / Civilian expedition) 1987 – Saser Kangri (First Ascent of Saser Kangri IV) 1988 – Mount Everest – West Ridge 1989 - East Greenland - Liverpool Land 1990 – Gyachung Kang 1992 – Annapurna IV 1992 – Mount Everest – West Ridge 1994 – Mount Foraker – Archangel Ridge (Second Ascent) 1996 – Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) 2000 – Kangchenjunga (Joint Service) – (Royal Navy lead) 2004 – Makalu (Joint Service – RAF Lead) 2006 – Mount Everest – West Ridge 2007 – Shishapangma 2008 – Makalu (Joint Service – RAF Lead) 2012 – Antarctica – Graham Land (Joint Service – British Army Lead) 2015 – Mount Everest – North Ridge (Received AMA Support) 2017 – Putha Hiunchuli – Normal Route
Climbing Competitions
The AMA organises bouldering and indoor sport climbing competitions for the Army. The first Army level sport climbing competition was organised at Bristol by Colonel Paul John Edwards on 28 April 1995. The AMA continues to organise indoor climbing competitions and now competes annually against the Royal Navy and RAF, as well as contributing members to the Combined Services Sport Climbing team, which competes regularly against military sport climbers from other countries.
Prominent AMA members
The following are current/former presidents, vice-presidents or Chairman of the AMA. Field Marshal Sir Gerald Templer KG, GCB, GCMG, KBE, DSO (President) (Loyal Regiment (North Lancashire)) Brigadier John Hunt, Baron Hunt KG, CBE, DSO, PC (vice-president) (King's Royal Rifle Corps) Sir Chris Bonington CVO, CBE, DL (Honorary Vice-president) (Royal Tank Regiment) Lieutenant Colonel Tony Streather OBE (Honorary President) (Gloucestershire Regiment)
UIAGM Mountain Guides: The following AMA members have become members of the British Association of Mountain Guides Major Mac McKay (Royal Army Physical Training Corps) Captain Stuart McDonald (Royal Engineers) (Everest Summiteer). Warrant Officer Class 1 Paul Chiddle (Royal Army Physical Training Corps) Captain Tania Noakes (Royal Signals)